BEHIND THE LABEL

INGREDIENTS PURPOSE ADVERSE EFFECTS

Dihydroxyacteone

Skin-colouring agent

Causes a free-radical reaction in the skin with the potential to cause skin-cell death and breaks in

DNA chains.

Cyclopentasiloxane,

dimethicone,

dimethiconol

Film-formers

Film-formers trap other substances (including other ingredients in the product) beneath them.

Because they don’t allow the skin to breathe, they can exacerbate skin irritation caused by sweat or

other substances.

Mica

Colour additive,

light refl ector

As the formula dries, mica becomes a respiratory hazard; if swallowed, it’s toxic to the liver and

gastrointestinal tract. The mineral is dangerous to mine – a process that often involves young

children working under perilous conditions.

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative

Causes skin irritation, contact dermatitis and contact allergies.

Ethylparaben,

propylparaben,

isobutylparaben,

methylparaben,

butylparaben

Preservatives

Cause skin irritation, contact dermatitis and contact allergies. Parabens are oestrogen mimics, and

excess oestrogen is a trigger for oestrogen-dependent cancers of the breast, ovary, uterus and

testicles, and may even affect fetal development. Scientists analysing breast-cancer tissues have

found accumulated parabens in every sample.

Alpha-isomethyl ionone Synthetic fragrance Causes skin sensitisation and CNS disruption.

Benzyl salicylate

Synthetic fragrance,

fi xative

Causes skin sensitisation.

BHT (butylated

hydroxytoluene)

Antioxidant

Causes contact allergies and contact dermatitis; a suspected carcinogen; may cause reproductive

defects. Once absorbed, BHT can accelerate the breakdown of vital nutrients such as vitamin D

(which maintains immunity, and healthy bones and teeth).

Coumarin Naturally derived

fragrance

A skin sensitiser, several types have already been banned in the EU because of their potential to

cause serious skin reactions and photosensitisation (sensitivity to light). In animals, it causes lung

and liver cancers, and kidney damage. According to the International Agency for Research on Cancer

(IARC), coumarin is ‘rapidly and extensively absorbed after topical or oral administration to human

subjects’. Human data show it to be liver-toxic. It may also cause CNS disruption.

Butylphenyl

methylpropional

Geraniol, citronellol,

citral, benzyl salicylate

Synthetic fragrance A skin irritant, its use is restricted in both leave-on and wash-off products because of its powerful

sensitisation potential. In animals, skin applications at high concentrations caused sperm damage

and CNS effects such as drowsiness and breathing diffi culties.

Synthetic fragrances

These must now be listed separately on cosmetics labels as a warning to consumers because they

are known to be powerful allergens and sensitisers.

NOTE: Space restrictions prohibit full referencing; however, Behind the Label draws on data from published studies and reports in medical, scientifi c and trade journals,

government-sponsored databases (e.g. the US National Library of Medicine) and relevant Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS).

ALTERNATIVES There are no safe fake tans. All products of this type use the same

few chemicals to produce results.

If you want a glow that is truly healthy, then regular, moderate

sun exposure is the only way to go. This doesn’t mean foolishly

baking in the sun for hours, but just enjoying the sun as a natural

part of your daily routine. Studies show that we all need around

15 to 20 minutes of sun on our face, arms and legs every day to

produce and maintain vital supplies of vitamin D. Staying out of

the sun means that many of us don’t get enough vitamin D, as

witnessed by the reemergence of diseases like rickets, and has

contributed to spiralling rates of depression as well as cancers of

the breast, prostate and colon.

THE ECOLOGIST 041