EAT ITALIA!

FishCook

Given that so much of Italy is surrounded by sea, it’s no surprise that fish comprises an essential part of the Italian diet – and it’s good for you, too...

My love affair with fish started quite early in my life. When I was 11, my dad decided to move from the farm that he had managed with my mum and retire to the sea. My seven brothers, one sister and I all had to find jobs. I was the youngest, and, in my school holidays, I worked for our local fishmonger – no problem with child labour in those days! At the end of my shift every week I was paid in fish, normally caught on that day. It wasn’t until I was a lot older that I appreciated my apprenticeship in cleaning and gutting fish, but my mum loved my job because it supplied her with enough food to feed all of us. Sunday lunch would normally consist of a fresh, large fish accompanied by roast potatoes and salad. If you are buying fish to cook at home, my advice is to venture into a good market, as supermarket fish counters are rarely as good or their fish as fresh. Wherever you buy your fish, the best way of telling if it is really fresh is by its smell: a ‘fishy’ smell is normally an indication that it is quite old. When choosing fish, always look for bright eyes and firm flesh. If the eyes are sunk into the head, it normally means that the fish has been dead for more than 48 hours. If you can see blood under the gills, the fish has not been dead for very long.

THE AUTHOR ALDO ZILLI Aldo Zilli is chef patron of Zilli Fish, Zilli Cafe and Signor Zilli Restaurant and Bar in Soho, London. Great food combined with Aldo’s legendary sense of humour have made his establishments extremely popular venues with the media as well as customers in search of a culinary treat.

MONKFISH WRAPPED IN PARMA HAM

Bacon is a good alternative to Parma ham. If you can’t find monkfish fillets, make sure that the fish you choose instead has suitably firm flesh.

Preheat the oven to 200ºC (400ºF/Gas 6). Cut away the membranes from the peppers, then slice the peppers very finely into strips. Season the monkfish all over.

Lay the Parma ham out flat on a work surface with each slice slightly overlapping, then arrange half of the peppers along the centre. Place the monkfish fillets on top and lay the remaining pepper slices and half of the rosemary sprigs on the fish. Tightly roll the Parma ham around the monkfish, then pierce the rolls with the remaining rosemary sprigs to secure them.

Heat a large, heavy-based ovenproof frying pan until hot, add the olive oil and heat until hot. Add the monkfish and seal for 5 minutes, turning the fish constantly.

Transfer the pan to the oven and roast for 10 minutes, then turn off the oven and open the door slightly; this will keep the fish warm while you are making the sauce.

To make the sauce, place the champagne in a pan over medium heat and simmer for 6 minutes, then add the vinegar, stock, sugar and half the mint. Simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Over a low heat, whisk in the butter, then stir in the remaining mint.

Serve the fish on top of sliced red onions and tomatoes with the sauce on the side.

1/2 small red pepper

1/2 small green pepper

1/2 small yellow pepper

2 monkfish fillets (350g each)

125g Parma ham, sliced

1 large sprig rosemary, separated into small sprigs

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Sliced red onions and tomatoes

Sauce 175ml champagne

3 tablespoons fruit vinegar

125ml fish stock

3 teaspoons caster sugar

4 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, chopped

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Serves 4–6

72 ITALIA! June 2006