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DISCOVER ITALIA!

24 ITALIA! March 2007

Clockwise from left: Etruscan necropolis; Fortezza di Albornoz; A delicious speciality shop; Duomo facade section; Orvieto town walls, Shops in the meandering streets; View of the Duomo; Orvieto alleys.
Orvieto 48 HOURS IN…

Famous worldwide for its white wine and extraordinarily beautiful cathedral, there is much more to the Umbrian town of Orvieto than meets the eye. Sarah Lane goes exploring.

Any mention of Orvieto will probably bring to mind the popular white wine produced in the area – either that or the magnificence of the cathedral. Before my visit, that was just about all I knew of Orvieto – I certainly had a lot to find out. Orvieto is set on a tall surge of rock flung here many millions of years ago by volcanic activity in the area. The unusual appearance and naturally strong defensive character of the spot drew Etruscan tribes, who settled in the 9th century BC, making it into one of the most important of the ancient civilisation’s 12 city states. Much later on, Orvieto went high profile again, when medieval popes and cardinals would flee here to take advantage of the defensive position. Today, Orvieto is a town at ease, towering over the expanse of lush Umbrian countryside – and rather than relying on its steep rocky base for protection, it is doing its best to protect the rock itself and all that lies within. Arriving in Orvieto one dark and chilly Friday evening last December, we didn’t get the full benefit of its commanding position straight away, but wound our way up the seemingly never-ending bends to the town and our hotel. Tired and hungry, we were thankful to find a cosy trattoria just opposite the hotel and without delay we set about experiencing a taste of Umbria. Within minutes we were enjoying fantastic truffle bruschetta, topped with the dense, newly produced local olive oil. Umbria is very proud of its food and wine, and justly so. It is home to olive oil, truffles and sausages to name but a few local specialities. Wandering

➤ A ll photographs © Sarah Lane

March 2007 ITALIA! 25