EAT ITALIA!

Bread

This worldwide staple is a fundamental part of Italian cuisine and, in turn, the Italian way of life. Ursula Ferrigno selects a few of her favourite breads for Italia! readers to try at home.

You won’t be surprised to learn that I make bread several times a week for my family and with students at my cookery classes. I eat bread every day – it represents a signifi cant part of my diet. Many people shy away from bread, thinking it’s fattening, but if eaten alongside a salad or vegetable dish it can be a healthy part of that meal. Bread is a complex carbohydrate, releasing energy slowly into the body, and the combination of bread and vegetables will keep me going well into the next mealtime. This means I won’t be tempted to have a less than healthy snack – which is what really puts on the weight. Bread is what one might call a ‘primal’ or ‘basic’ food, and the simple mixture of fl our, water, salt and leaven – which is all it is in essence – is found in almost every society, large or small. The ingredients for bread can, in combination, transform themselves from virtually nothing into something so eminently satisfying, which to me simply seems amazing. When bread-making becomes a regular activity in your life, you will perhaps understand why it is a food so intrinsic in human society. Think of its fragrance, its freshly baked warmth, its endlessly varied ability to please and sustain, and the love of family and friends the time taken in making it represents.

THE AUTHOR

URSULA FERRIGNO is an acclaimed Italian baker and cook. She is author of several books including Bread, which she co-wrote with Eric Treuille.

CARTA DA MUSICA

Called ‘carta da musica’ – ‘music paper’ – because of the crunchy sound it makes when broken, this light, thin fl atbread is native to Sardinia. Once baked, it may be stored for several weeks.

Sprinkle the yeast into the water in a bowl. Leave for 5 minutes, then stir to dissolve.

Mix the fl our and salt together in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in the yeasted water. Mix in the fl our from the sides to form a stiff, sticky dough.

1¼ tsp dried yeast

325ml water

500g strong white fl our

1½ tsp salt

Turn the dough out on to a lightly fl oured work surface. Knead the dough until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.

Put the dough in a clean bowl and cover with a tea towel. Leave to rise for just 20 minutes.

Lightly fl our a baking sheet and place it in the preheated oven for 5-10 minutes. Divide the dough into 16 equal-sized pieces. On a lightly fl oured work surface, roll out the fi rst piece of dough to form a paper-thin round, 16cm across.

Cover the remaining pieces of dough with a damp tea towel to prevent them from drying out. If the dough resists shaping, cover it with a damp tea towel and leave it to rest for 2 minutes. While the fi rst piece rests, begin rolling out the next piece.

Immediately place the rolled out dough on the preheated, fl oured baking sheet. Bake in the preheated oven for about 10 minutes, turning the risen round over once, until lightly coloured and puffy. Re-fl our the baking sheet; repeat with each shaped dough round.

Remove the breads from the oven and pile them on top of one another on a wire rack. Leave to cool; as the breads cool they will become crisp and brittle.

70 ITALIA! March 2007
FOCACCIA FARCITA

This bread takes its name from the Latin word ‘focus’, which means ‘hearth’. The embers of the hearth were where focaccia was traditionally baked. Italian-style ingredients complement this bread dough to perfection.

Sprinkle the yeast into 250ml of the water in a bowl. Leave for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the fl our and salt together in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre of the fl our and pour in the yeasted water and the oil.

Mix in the fl our. Stir in the remaining water to form a soft, sticky dough. Add more water 1 tablespoon at a time, if needed.

Turn the dough out on to a lightly fl oured work surface. Knead until smooth, silky and elastic, about 10 minutes. Put the dough in an oiled bowl and cover. Leave to rise until doubled in size, 1½-2 hours.

Knock back and divide the dough into two equal pieces. Form each piece into a ball by cupping your hands around it. Apply a light, downwards pressure to the sides while rotating the dough in a steady motion. Continue until an even round shape, for 5 minutes, then leave to rest for 10 minutes. This is called chafi ng.

2 tsp dried yeast

350ml water

500g strong white fl our

1½ tsp salt

3 tbsp olive oil

FOR THE FILLING AND TOPPING

200g Gorgonzola, crumbled

200g mozzarella, sliced

a handful of basil leaves

½ tsp coarse salt

3 sprigs rosemary, stems removed

4 tbsp olive oil

Roll out each piece into a 24cm round. Place one on an oiled baking sheet. Arrange the cheeses and basil over the top, then seal in the fi lling using the second round. Cover the dough loosely with a tea towel. Prove until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.

Use your fi ngertips to gently press into the surface of the dough to form dimples about 1cm deep. Sprinkle with the coarse salt and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, then top with rosemary leaves.

Bake in the preheated oven for 30-45 minutes until golden. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil, and serve warm.

March 2007 ITALIA! 71