Inside

steppe six

A CENTRAL ASIAN PANORAMA SUMMER 2009

Editors’ Welcome 5 Welcome from the Editors

Dispatches 7 Voices from the Region, by Alice Boyle, Barthy Digby and Medeine Tribinevicius

Features 30 Not the Ends of the Earth, by Medeine Tribinevicius with photographs by Arman Umarkhojiyev

s 34 Tajkistan: Land of Wet Gold, with photographs by Carolyn Drake and text by Zarrina s Muhammadieva s 64 Imperial Designs: Tales of a Gardening Prince, by Deborah Dunham, with photographs by ss Nick Danziger and Deborah Dunham s 76 Kazakhstan’s Oil Rush, with photographs by Yann Mingard and text by Régis Gente

Culture 12 Events, exhibitions, plays and films around the world

s 16 Afghan Star: th e documentary reviewed

Books 18 Christian Tyler considers Kasghar: Oasis City on China’s Old Silk Road

s 21 Nadira Artyk admires The Dancer from Khiva s 21 Jeff Sahadeo is subject to Russian Rule in Samarkand s 22 Nick Danziger thinks over Out of Steppe s 23 Christian Tyler enjoys The Trail of War s 24 ‘On the Shelf ’ reviews previously published titles

Fine Lines 26 Mirage in the Soviet Steppe, by Aliya de Tiesenhausen; photographed by Christopher Herwig

Food 108 Red Hot Chilli Pepper, by Charles Perry with photographs by Marsha Johnston and Wes Walker

Regulars 104 Hotels: Altai Wilderness, by Jeremy Tredinnick

s 111 Restaurants: Afghan Cuisine in the City of Light, by B.E. Hopkins

Steppe Guide 88 Ikat, by Kate Fitz Gibbon, Susan Meller and Anne-Laure Py

Snapshots 10 Bird’s-Eye View, by Matthieu Paley

s 106 Tea Time, by Choi Chi Chio with text by Glenn R. Mack

Top Ten 28 Automobiles, by D. Havilov, Malene Hein, Christopher Herwig, Ian Mortimer and

s

Clive Rogers

Last Word 112 Medicine without Frontiers, by Alex Duncan (as told to Leo Docherty)

Cover Photograph: Detail from a miniature of the Bagh-e Wafa (‘Garden of Fidelity’), illustrated by Dhanu, taken from the Vaqi ‘at-i Baburi, c. 1590s, British Library Images, British Library