Textile Forum Magazine - Issue 1, 2011
AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND GERMANY
TEXTILE CRAFT DESIGNER Launch of a new training profile for textile craft techniques
Last year the Federal Institute for Vocational Education and Training received an application for a project examining the training situation of several textile craft professions – embroiderer (1984), knitter (1983) and weaver (2001) – and to evaluate the potential for restructuring this f ield. All partners involved expressly supported this mission as it aimed to redefine and revitalise professions that attract few trainees.
The textile crafts are usually associated with old, traditional techniques such as handweaving, embroidery, felting, bobbin lace-making, passementerie, pile knotting, indigo printing, natural dyeing etc. These are craft techniques that no longer provide a livelihood as they have been replaced by industrial production technologies. Standardised and low-cost products are in demand, leaving little room for craft quality standards and the need for individuality.
It is interesting to note that in times of economic difficulty, notions such as “handmade” or “bespoke” are frequently recollected and the crafts suddenly appreciated again. Textile craft techniques are part of everyday life and do not belong in museums to be admired like endangered species in a zoo. However, our efforts should go beyond securing and passing on traditional techniques and professions; we must also develop a new idea of society. Use of old and new materials and combinations of various craft techniques have led to the production of one-offs that are not only up-to-date and of high quality, but also meet the demand for individuality. For instance, wool and silk church parements are now produced in new materials, such as metal threads or glass, using weaving and embroidery techniques; designer lamps are felted from various materials; and precious bobbin lace is worked into evening dresses.
The project illustrates that it makes sense, and is even necessary, to prevent these professions from dying out completely, and that they must be revived, preserved and promoted in the long term. However, it also showed that this will only be achieved if all parties join forces, i.e. by consolidating the various textile craft techniques.
A new three-year training profile, “craft textile designer” will be created, allowing trainees to specialise in various disciplines that will include the three existing professions of embroiderer, knitter and weaver. The profession will also include three further disciplines, bobbin lace-making, felting and passementerie. At present, formal training in the latter disciplines is not available. Consolidation of the textile crafts in one set of training regulations now offers the opportunity of broadening these fields, allowing students to work in a number of techniques. This opens a wide choice of professional options for young people while also ensuring the survival of these old cultural techniques. Textile designers work in workshops, studios or companies, and some later set up their own business. Potential working f ields are stage costume and parement workshops, therapeutic institutions or fashion studios.
The subjects to be covered by this new training profile are currently being compiled by the Federal Institute for Vocational Education and Training, in co-operation with experts and partners. The new training regulations will take effect from 1st August 2011. Training contracts may be signed as of now. For detailed information on the new training profile please contact Christiane Reuter, tel: 0228-107-2225, email: firstname.lastname@example.org, or visit the following internet address (http://www.bibb. de/de/55249.htm).
Passementerie making; profession Textile Design,
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2011 GRASSI FAIR The next edition of the Leipzig ‘Grassimesse’ is scheduled at the Grassi Museum of Applied Arts (Johannisplatz 5-11, D04103) from 28th to 30th October 2011. Anyone interested in participating in this international forum for contemporary applied art and design may apply to the museum. A panel of judges will select some 100 submissions and award 4 prizes worth between € 2,000 and € 2,500. The organisers invite submissions from the fields of textiles, fashion, jewellery, leather and other disciplines (http:// www.grassimuseum.de). Subm. deadl.: 15th April 2011
2011 SWISS DESIGN AWARD This year’s award ceremony of “Design Preis Schweiz“ will take place in Langenthal on 4th November. As of now designers, companies and students enrolled at design colleges may submit projects and products completed within the past two years. For further information consult the website: (www.designpreis.ch/doc/DPS _Presse_ausschreibung_D.pdf) Submission deadline: 28th April 2011
SPINNERS’ MEETING AT FEUERSTEIN CASTLE Themed “Faser-Metamorphosen (Fibre Metamorphoses)”, this major spinners’ meeting hosted by the German Handspinners’ Guild will take place at the Feuerstein Catholic adult education centre near Ebermannstadt, Bavaria (D-91320), from 30th September until 3rd October 2011. The four-day programme is packed with lectures, workshops, a fashion show and demonstrations. For registration contact Anna Rose Grieb, Mathildenstr. 41, D-20489 Nürnberg; email: grieb-g@ t-online.de, or visit the website, www.handspinngilde.org Registration deadline: 31st May 2011
TEXTILE KULTUR HASLACH The new course programme for the summer (17th - 29th July 2011) is available! It can be obtained by post in brochure form or downloaded from the society’s internet website. It includes the international weavers’ market and “Fibre Zone”, a fair for yarns and materials, on 23rd and 24th July. The society will mark its 20th anniversary by introducing its project for the future, “Haslach Textile Centre”; we reported on its initial development in detail in TF 1/09. Address: Textile Kultur Haslach, Marktplatz 45, A-4170 Haslach; tel: +43728972300; fax: /723004; email: email@example.com; http:// www.textile.kultur.haslach.at
LARGE-FORMAT QUILT COMPETITION In 2013 this judged exhibition, organised by the Quiltkunst (Quilt Art) society, will be shown in various locations around Germany and possibly also in neighbouring countries. Detailed conditions of entry are available from Margit Amann von Glembotzki, Max-Born-Str. 6, D51429 Bergisch-Gladbach, or the website, www.quiltkunst-ev.de Registr. deadl.: 1st Aug 2011
‚COLOURS OF THE ORIENT‘ For the 30th Bobbin Lace Congress held in Annaberg-Buchholz from 13th to 15th April 2011, the German Bobbin Lace Association holds a competition that is open to non-members. Each applicant may submit one object measuring no more than 40 cm in width, 80 cm in length and 6 cm in height when framed. Prizes worth a total of € 500 will be awarded to the winners. Registration forms are available in German as well as Danish, English, French, Dutch and Czech! – Deutscher Klöppelverband e.V., Schloss Zweibrüggen, D52531 Übach-Palenberg; tel: +49-2451/49985; fax: /49986; (http://www.deutscherkloeppelverband.de) Registr. deadl.: 15th Aug 2011
THE ZÜRCHER STALDER PROGRAMME
This company based in Kirchberg, Switzerland, offers yarns, courses, books, tours and weaving equipment, and is also greatly committed to culture. It organises interesting workshops as well as attractive exhibitions, including: 19th-27th March 2011 “Filz im Element (felting)”, exhibition of graduation pieces from the three-year felt course 28th May-17th June 2011 “Textile Virus”, exhibition by members of the Swiss Interessengemeinschaft Handweben (IGH – Handweavers’ Association) BOBBIN LACE EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMME The German Bobbin Lace Association (www.deutscherkloeppelverband.de)has published the courses, seminars and workshops offered in 2011 in a brochure. It provides information on venues, lectures, conditions of entry and over 30 educational offerings.
2nd July-26th August 2011 “Handgefärbte Stoffe aus Westafrika (Hand-Dyed Fabrics from West Africa)” 19th Nov.-23rd Dec. 2011 “Tapestries by Louise QuarteroBleicher, 1927-2009” The various courses include: “Magical Materials” by Danish instructor Lotte Dalgaard, 16th-20h May 2011 “Weben ist Westafrika (Weaving is West Africa)” by Ibrahim Coulibay & Komory Fofana, 11th-13th July 2011 “Indische Flechtstickerei (Indian Interlaced Embroidery)
EUSKIRCHEN WOOL MARKET The Textile Museum of Euskirchen (Carl-Koenen-Str. 25b, D-53881) will hold its traditional annual wool market on 5th June 2011. During the event it will also present an exhibition entitled “Hauptsache Hut (Essential Hats)” (http://www. industriemuseum.lvr.de).
3rd NEEDLE MARKET The German city of Iserlohn was once well known for the needles produced by the MasteBaren factory, whose premises will be the site of a needle market for the third time on the weekend of 2nd/3rd April 2011 (http://www.iserlohn.de/ nadelmarkt-2011.2434.0.html).
2nd ‘TEXTILE DAYS’ AT SELIGENSTADT On the weekend of 14th/15th May 2011, the second edition of the ‘Textiltage’ exhibition and market will be held at the regional museum of Seligenstadt. For further information contact Ingeborg Dittler, http://www.textiltage.de
MARKET OF BEAUTIFUL THINGS Entitled “Markt der schönen Dinge”, this craft market involving 90 selected participants will take place in the inner courtyard of the Chamber of Crafts and Skilled Trades, Mainz, from 2nd to 5th June 2011. The event is organised by ‚galerie forum‘ (http://www.galerieforum.com). The same organiser will stage a market entitled “design + gestaltung am rhein” along the Rhine Promenade of Unkel on the Whitsun weekend, 12th/13th June 2011..
ART AND CRAFTS MARKET IN HANOVER The 15th edition of this market held in the old town of Hanover is scheduled on 18th/19th June 2011. It will present clothing (including hats), home accessories, jewellery, leather, paper and other craft products. The organiser is the town’s cultural department (http://www. kunsthandwerk-hannover.de).
MUSSBACH CRAFT MARKET The town of Neustadt-Mussbach an der Weinstraße will hold this market at the local historic manor house on 10th/11th September 2011. Applied artists from Germany and France will present their exhibits at the venue as well as the “Kelterhaus” (press-house). This is another event organised by ‚galerie forum‘ of Mainz (http://www. galerieforum.com). KOBLENZ CRAFT MARKET As part of the Schängel Market, crafts will be offered in the town centre of Koblenz from 16th to 18th Sept. 2011. The organiser is Service und Messe GmbH of the Koblenz Chamber of Crafts and Skilled Trades. ‒ Handwerkskammer, Friedrich-EbertRing 33, D-56068 Koblenz; tel: +49-261/398277; fax: /398997; email: firstname.lastname@example.org
THE ‚CREATIVA‘ FAIR The 30th anniversary of this fair, scheduled at the Dortmund Westfalenhallen from 16th to 20th March 2011, offers displays by some 500 exhibitors as well as demonstrations, performances and workshops, as well as fashion shows featuring young designers and a bead exhibition. A doll and teddy bear market will be held for the f irst time. For further information contact (www.westfalenhallen.de/ messen/creativa/index.php) HANDARBEIT & HOBBY FAIR From 8th to 10th April 2011, ‚h+h cologne‘ again presents a complete overview of the industry, involving 230 exhibitors from 24 countries. Visitors can also expect a wide-ranging programme of workshops and special shows. One of the highlights will be a major show of fashion trends. For further details see the fair website, www.hh-cologne.de THE EUNIQUE FAIR This fair aims to become a leading European fair of applied arts and design. Its third edition will run at the Karlsruhe exhibition centre from 27th to 29th May 2011. Last year, some 400 exhibitors from 21 countries participated, and the fair was held in partnership with WCC-Europe who will present the “WCC-Europe EUNIQUE Award” again in 2011. This year’s partner country is France (http://www.eu-nique.de).
TUCHINFORM Tuchinform maintains a Swiss network of textile and fashion design that offers a stage to some 150 designers and a sales platform for their products in its own shop. Young students of the Zurich Mode-DesignSchule (fashion design college) present their work in an exhibition entitled “Liberté d‘orée” from 10th to 21st May; Heiner Wiedemann exhibits designs for his label in “A Balance between Evolution and Revolution” from 28th June to 2nd July 2011; and an exhibition of textile and fashion design, “Flying Bipeds” is scheduled from 2nd to 24th September 2011, with work by Ramona Keller and Miriam Lindegger. Address: Tuchinform, Obere Kirchgasse 8, CH-8400 Winterthur; http://www.tuchinform.ch
KARIN BUNDSCHUH The 2010 edition of this design competition, held in the state of Baden-Württemberg on a biennial basis, resulted in three winners of state awards, one for jewellery (Rainer Milewski from Pforzheim), one for ceramics (Susanne Schumacher from Bissingen) and one for textiles. Master weaver Karin Bundschuh from Heidelberg received her state award for a silk dress as well as other experimental clothing fabrics woven by herself. The awards were presented at the municipal gallery of Reutlingen during the opening of the state exhibition associated with the competition.
Karin Bundschuh/D: experimental clothing fabric
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