100 ‘Muslim Worlds’ at Berlin’s Ethnographic Museum

51 Ladakh & Zanskar Tie-Dyed Textiles

88 Ancient art at Katoen Natie

CONTENTS ISSUE 171 SPRING 2012

FRONTLINES NEWS Spring at Christie’s London; news from the Textile Museum Washington DC; AOA 2012 Fair in New York; McMullan Award for Elena Tsareva; sad farewells to Edward Stott and Dennis Forde 23 IN MEMORIAM Remembering Mary Hunt Kahlenberg 26 FROMTHE ARCHIVE The Bavarian National Museum’s seldom-seen 15th century Anatolian octagon-star carpet is currently on display in Munich 30 MASTERPIECE A Sierra Leonean strip-woven cloth, once the property of iconic French fashion designer Paul Poiret, in the MFA, Boston 32

FEATURES LADAKH & ZANSKAR

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Tie-dyed LiktseCapes and GonchasDresses FELIX ELWERT Two types of traditional tie-dyed woollen garments from the Indian Himalayas – the liktse capes of Zanskar and Ladakhi women’s gonchas dresses – illustrate larger similarities and differences within a broader canon of regional material culture

SAHARAN CHIC

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ROS WEAVER

The totemic jewellery worn by the women of the nomadic Tuareg tribes may be well known but the tribe’s woven mats from Mauritania are only now beginning to be appreciated

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

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Carpets in the Albert Hall Museum, Jaipur STEVEN COHEN The recent publication of TreasuresoftheAlbertHallMuseum,Jaipur, focuses attention on the Indian and other knotted-pile carpets from the museum’s collection

THE JAIPUR GARDEN CARPET

BRUCE HEALY The Albert Hall Museum’s Safavid ‘garden’ carpet is shown in its entirety for the first time

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REDTAPIS

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THOMAS MURRAY Women’s initiation sarongs feature in tribal and courtly culture across Indonesia, but few can rival the tapisof the Paminggir of Lampung in Sumatra

ART ODYSSEY

INTERVIEW BY THOMAS COLE Tibetan rugs and more: a voyage through the wide ranging collections of Bob and Alice Piccus

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THE PAST MADE PRESENT

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International logistics firm Katoen Natie have opened a private museum in its Antwerp headquarters. Professor Antoine Moor, the company’s scientific advisor for textile art, introduces the collection with the personal impressions of the museum opening from HALI’s Editor Ben Evans

CONTEXT EXHIBITIONS Vrouyr at BRAFA in Brussels; David Sorgato’s silk exhibition in Milan; new permanent exhibition ‘Muslim Worlds’ at the Ethnological Museum, Berlin; ‘Patterns of Trade, Indian textiles for export, 1400-1900’ at Singapore’s Asian Civilisations Museum; ‘Cotton: Global Threads’ at the Whitworth Art Gallery in Manchester; the January 2012 Domotex in Hanover; Liz Lees and Bill Caskey’s annual San Francisco Tribal & Textile Art Show in San Francisco 99 CALENDAR Auctions, exhibitions, fairs and conferences worldwide 112 AUCTION REPORT A review of the auction ‘Important American Schoolgirl Embroideries: The Landmark Collection of Betty Ring’ at Sotheby’s New York in January 2012 117 AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Recent sales in Europe and the USA 119 BOOKS SaltilloSarapes,ASurvey:1850-1920reviewed by Christopher Selser; Lee A. Talbot looks at DreamsofEmpire:JapanesePropagandaTextiles 126 PARTING SHOTS From Antwerp, Hanover, San Francisco and London 136 LAST PAGE A 15th century falconry tapestry panel 138

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