ISSUE 5 JANUARY 2012

‘Single or return, Sir?’

among the contributors

DAVID JENKINS long-distance travel at the age of nine months when his incessant howling during a troop ship’s six-week haul to Singapore had him banished to the soundproofed sickbay for the duration. He’s since gone abroad

DAVID JENKINS first experienced long-distance travel at the age of nine months when his incessant howling during a troop ship’s six-week haul to Singapore had him banished to the soundproofed sickbay for the duration. He’s since gone abroad as often as he can, either as a hippy, a writer or a happy wanderer. A freelance writer, he lives in London and has two grown-up children. On page 10 he writes about a recent trip to Ethiopia.

JONATHAN FRYER voice to regular listeners of Radio 4’s An insatiable traveller, he is determined to visit every member state of the United Nations before expiring gracefully on a Pacific

JONATHAN FRYER will be a familiar voice to regular listeners of Radio 4’s FromOurOwnCorrespondent. An insatiable traveller, he is determined to visit every member state of the United Nations before expiring gracefully on a Pacific island. In the meantime, he reads many books, writes others, and lectures on cruise ships and anywhere (more or less) people invite him. On page 30 he marvels at Estonia’s ‘e-oldies’.

OLIVER BENNETT writer and lecturer specialising in travel, property, art and architecture. Two children, one car, flat in London. He’s still working out what to do when he grows up. He recently went walking in the

OLIVER BENNETT is a journalist, writer and lecturer specialising in travel, property, art and architecture. Two children, one car, flat in London. He’s still working out what to do when he grows up. He recently went walking in the Rose Valley in Morocco, which you can read about on page 26.

In association with

Cover illustration by Steven Appleby GoAwayis published by The Oldie magazine, 65 Newman Street, London W1T 3EG Editor Sonali Chapman Design Silvia Baz and Joe Buckley Advertising Lisa Martin, Azmi Elkholy, Jack Watts For advertising enquiries, call Lisa Martin on 020 7487 8405 For editorial enquiries, call 020 7436 8801 or email editorial@theoldie.co.uk travel with

4 Oldie Travel Awards The winners of our fifth travel awards announced

6 A Land of Dark Hills Colin Thubron discovers the haunting tale of the Lemko

7 Luxury on the Nile Carla McKay cruises in style

9 Out and About Hot tips and travel tales from Oldie readers

10 Faith and rock David Jenkins tours the magnificent classical churches of Ethiopia

12 How to survive an all-inclusive It was paradise among the blue wrist-bands, says Dea Birkett of her all-inclusive holiday to Mexico

13 Eating like an Aztec Could Dea Birkett stomach Montezuma’s menu?

15 Urban dreams Dervla Murphy and other travelling friends of The Oldie recommend their favourite city destinations

20 Preserving the past Virginia Ironside travelled to Romania with a charity battling to protect the ancient Saxon way of life

23 A Sicilian odyssey There can be no better way to see Sicily than from the deck of a boat, writes Jennie Erdal

26 A walk in the pink Oliver Bennett discovered a new Morocco when he went walking in the Rose Valley

27 Welcome to serenity-on-ski Liz Vercoe skis in total comfort

29 World’s Worst Dump What’s happened to Hampstead? bemoans Marcus Berkmann

30 Online in Estonia Jonathan Fryer wonders at the digital prowess of this tiny country

January 2012 GO AWAY The Oldie 3