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Vivienne WESTWOOD 1 April-11 July 2004

in association with

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Contributing Editors: Jessica Hemmings Anne Morrell Michael Brennard-Wood Karen Nicol Philip Hughes Clare Lewis

Selvedge (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published six times a year by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 35 Ballards Lane, London, N3 1XW. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2004. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any letter or material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: St Ives Roche Ltd. Paper: Hello Silk Board 250g, Hello Matt 130g, Challenger Offset 110g. Colour Origination: Dawkins Colour Ltd, London. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: Mercury International Ltd. Periodicals Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, C/O Mercury Airfreight International Ltd, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £30.00; Europe 55.00; USA $75.00; Canada CA$100.00; rest of world £50.00. Web Magazine, UK £20.00; Europe 30.00; USA $37.00; Canada CA$49.00; rest of world £20.00. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Contents

REGULARS

4 bias / contributors Introductions all round

5 correspond / enquire We welcome your questions, comments and criticism

6 inform / inspire / insight Five pages of news, trends and novel ideas

22 concept Grayson Perry teaches Liz Hoggart the craft of cross-dressing

26 project Soft wear: the intersection of textiles and technology. Investigating the latest innovations and their implications

36 destination Explore the rich textile heritage and beautiful Baroque architecture of Lithuania

48 cachet Annabel McMillan, describes a highlight of the annual auction of Islamic and Indian Textiles

49 anecdote Washday blues, Diane LaGambina describes life before tumble dryers

50 profile Ian Wilson admires the striking work of Kate Blee: artist and textile designer

56 runway French revolution: Yuniya Kawamura examines the impact of Japanese designers on Paris couture

80 quintessence Neisha Crosland tells us about a few of her favourite things

86 read Reviews of the latest books that speak volumes

88 view Critiques of the latest shows

94 divulge / declare / disclose We list the latest exhibitions, fairs and conferences

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FEATURES

12 Antique postcards can be an invaluable tool in discovering the history of textiles; Professor Anne Morrell puts us in the picture

16 Verna Suit documents an extraordinary community of quilters in Gees Bend Alabama who have worked in cultural isolation for a hundred years

33 Rear-view mirror Retro fashion as it relates to Newton’s third law of Physics

35 Craft on the catwalk Karen Nicol reveals the designers that have been seduced by stitch

42 The Georgian splendour of Bath houses a wealth of textile treasures, Deirdre McSharry takes us on a tour

44 Portobello Road We experience the thrill of the chase when shopping for vintage textiles

62 Cultural collaboration Polly Leonard reflects on Through the Surface, a recent exhibition, and decides if two heads really are better than one

66 Shadows and shibori Jessica Hemmings finds peace in the patterns of French textile designer Marie-Hélène Guelton

70 Asta Barrington invites us inside her home and reveals the objects that inspire her delicate textiles

74 Pastels are the colour trend for spring but for Shyam Ahuja, the man who reinvented the Dhurrie, they have been a lifelong passion

82 Exclusive extract from Yale’s new book Fashion at the Edge and interview with author Caroline Evans c o n t e n t s s e l v e d g e . o r g