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insight ire insp inform selvedge.org

Cover image: Fabric by Anniken Rimala Dress by Mika Piirainen for Marimekko Summer 2004

Selvedge Magazine Editorial office PO Box 40038 N6 5UW T: 020 8341 9721 editorial@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org

Publisher: Selvedge ltd

Editor: Polly Leonard, editor@selvedge.org Art Director: Janna Cossettini, design@selvedge.org Sub Editor: Elizabeth Smith, subeditor@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Rosie Tatham, copy@selvedge.org Picture Editor: Jane Larkin, images@selvedge.org Editorial Interns: Beth Hale, assistant@selvedge.org Laura Bowen, assistant@selvedge.org Jasmine Boler, assistant@selvedge.org Publishing and Marketing: Justine Potts, marketing@selvedge.org Subscriptions: Christiane Goldsbrough, subscriptions@selvedge.org Advertising: Peter Shaw, advertising@selvedge.org Accounts: Neil Graham, accounts@selvedge.org

Contributing Editors: Jessica Hemmings Anne Morelle Michael Brennand-Wood Karen Nicol Philip Hughes Clare Lewis

Selvedge (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published six times a year by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 35 Ballards Lane, London, N3 1XW. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2004. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: St Ives Roche Ltd. Paper: Hello Silk Board 250g, Hello Matt 130g, Challenger Offset 110g. Colour Origination: Dawkins Colour Ltd, London. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: Mercury International Ltd. Periodicals Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, C/O Mercury Airfreight International Ltd, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £33.00; Europe 860.00; USA $80.00; rest of world £55.00. Web Magazine, UK £20.00; Europe 830.00; USA $37.00; rest of world £20.00. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Contents

REGULARS

4 bias / contributors are going green

5 correspond / enquire We welcome your questions, comments and criticism

7 inform / inspire / insight Five pages of news, trends and novel ideas

16 compose Indefensible beauty: Do bull fighting’s gorgeous costumes glamorise an inhumane pursuit, art or atrocity?

22 concept Sympathy for the devil, Catherine Harper explores the controversial art of Tracey Emin.

26 project Khadi: The freedom fabric. Brinda Gill unravels the history of this versatile and enduring cloth. Plus the subtle qualities of designer Christina Kim and her work in khadi.

37 anecdote ‘horses sweat, men perspire but ladies glow’ and it seems in the 18th century they had very little choice.

44 destination They say ‘Paris in springtime’, we say New York in summer. It’s hot but... Oh! so cool.

48 global Crafting a culture - Jeni Allenby traces the course of Palestinian political embroidery since 1949.

82 quintessence Emily Dyson reveals the inspirations behind her quirky creations.

84 read Reviews of the latest books that speak volumes.

86 view Critiques of the latest shows.

93 divulge / declare / disclose International listings and previews

FEATURES

13 conversation piece: Curator, conservationist and artist discuss a recent commission for the Whitworth Art Gallery.

35 fashion’s greeneyed: fresh and bright. Don’t let the grass grow under your feet.

38 home is where the art is. Gay Daniel’s collection is housed in America and the UK. Olga Norris receives a warm welcome.

40 talented embroiderer and friend of Sylvia Pankhurst, Lilias Swain was in danger of being forgotton. Thomasina Beck rescues her from obscurity.

52 ‘the personal is political’ Bradley Quinn takes on the issue-based work of fashion designer Lucy Orta.

56 speaker’s corner: Katharine Hamnett’s outspoken views on fair trade textiles.

60 sweet like candy but are they empty calories? Nicola Donovan reports from London Fashion Week and the beautifully crafted collections of Jessica Ogden.

64 Liz Hoggard finds the ‘soul of the north’ in these Finnish textiles.

68 northern highlights - We head to Helsinki to find the hotspots in this cold country.

70 cohabit Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, Christina Strutt shows us some of her favourite things.

75 bikini babe, we profile talented illustrator and textile designer Virginia Johnson.

76 united nations the stunning work of Yoshiko Jinzenji captures the essence of three cultures.

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