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Cover Photograph by Sean & Seng, 'Reflected Trees', Orla Kiely S/S 2004
Selvedge Magazine Editorial Office PO Box 40038 N6 5UW editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org T: 020 8341 9721 Publisher: Selvedge Ltd Editor: Polly Leonard editor@selvedge.org Deputy Editor: Elizabeth Smith subeditor@selvedge.org News Editor: Kate Karko news@selvedge.org Designer: Rebecca Machin design@selvedge.org Subscriptions Manager: Ros Earl subscriptions@selvedge.org Advertising Manager: Simona Ciabatti advertising@selvedge.org Marketing Assistant: Jessica Hellin marketing@selvedge.org Editorial Assistant: Andrea Sallee assistant@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Rosalind Jane Editorial Intern: Charlotte Bullen Contributing Editors: Jessica Hemmings • Anne Morrell • Michael Brennard-Wood • Amy de la Haye • Karen Nicol • Philip Hughes • Catherine Harper • Elana Dickson (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published six times a year by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright ©Selvedge Ltd 2007. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: St Ives Roche Ltd UK and St Ives Cleveland Ohio Ltd USA. Paper: Hello Silk Board 200g, Hello Matt 100g, Challenger Offset 100g. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: Mercury International Ltd. Periodicals. Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, C/O Mercury Airfreight International Ltd, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £40.00; Europe €75.00; USA $90.00; Canada C$90; Australia AU$100; Japan ¥14,300; Rest of World £60.00
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Contents
INDULGE textiles to buy, collect or simply admire
13 Famous five Designers who deserve recognition 61 Big Deal Size matters in knitwear this season
INDUSTRY from craft to commerce
26 Print run Neisha Crosland’s journey into textiles 36 London design festival We highlight all the important dates for your diary 47 A miller’s tale English, Scottish and Welsh historic fabrics
ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives
42 Time warp Silk weaving in London’s East end 54 Disruptive students Camouflage and the art of concealment 96 Family album Flash Harrys & Pearly Queens
CONCEPT textiles in fine art
67 Wake up call Kirstie Macleod’s dreaming dresses
ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends
22 On route Nothing is lost in Transit 50 Lay of the land How the hill, heath and wood are woven into estate tweeds 56 On parade Jeff Griffin shows no army fatigue 62 Level best Veronika Persche’s knits
COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed
30 Bottom line Upholstering the Underground
72 Cottage industry Primmy Chorley’s Welsh sanctuary
GLOBAL travel destinations and ethnographic textiles
39 Eastenders Creative community spirit
INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings
04 bias / contributors 07 news Trends and essential ideas 77 quintessence Orla Kiely 82 read The Dinner Party Poiret Diamonds and Bars Reading List 86 international listings Exhibitions, fairs and events 88 view 12th International Triennial of Tapestry Twentieth Century Textiles Needles and Pins The Perfect – Freddie Robbins Kate Blee Mary Cozens-Walker: Painting with Thread 93 coming next The Scandinavian Issue: Shining a light on Nordic Textile Traditions 95 stockists 80 subscription offers Six crisp notecards and envelopes from Neisha Crosland for every new subscriber and renewal
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