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(ISSN: 1742-254X) is published bi-monthly six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2010. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: Westdale Press Ltd UK. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: DHL Global Mail, Periodicals Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, DHL Global Mail (UK) Ltd, Mills Road, Quarry Wood, Aylesford, Kent, ME20 7WZ. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £50.00; Europe €75.00; USA $75.00; Canada C$135.00; Australia AU$100.00; Japan ¥10,500; Rest of World £75.00
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Over the last few weeks I’ve been addicted to the BBC series FakeorFortuneabout mysteries in the art world. The twists and turns in the story are fascinating and like all good detective stories
I end up dying to know the final outcome. The appeal of a mystery story is wide and enduring, those with a criminal element pique our interest even more. Textiles are often used to solve cases and forensic science, with its ability to identify minute fibres, plays a vital role: but fabrics and fashion were linked to crime long before the era of microscopes. In Crimes of fashion, pg 53, Sarah Jane Downing looks at the ways textiles were linked with crime and punishment in the past.
Today textiles play a different role in the life of criminals. Beth Smith finds out more about the work of prison charity Fine Cell Work, pg 42. Incarcerated for mental illness rather than criminal activity Arthur Bispo do Rosário, pg 30 nevertheless demonstrates the freedom that creativity gives to those confined.
In an issue devoted to crime and mystery we couldn’t neglect the court system and the role clothes play in its many traditions and ceremonies: John Havelock Teague takes us on a journey through the history of legal dress, pg 46. Falling neatly between criminal and court are those that bring them to justice – the detective. Most us meet them in the pages of a novel or on screen so we look at the influence fictional detectives have had on fashion, pg 24 from the tweeds and twinsets of Miss Marple to the flamboyant cape of Sherlock Holmes. The drama inherent in crime is an interesting phenomenon and the backdrops for murderous tales have their own mystery and glamour – lavish country houses, gothic castles and real life locations such as The Orient Express, pg 28 are a vital part of the mix. Someone else with a great eye for an interesting location is Rusty Tagliareni. His beautiful and haunting photographs of an abandoned mill in Maryland, pg 17 are part of an ongoing project to save it.
The subject of costume and settings bring us to Halloween and this year we celebrate the season with a spooky, textile related short story, TheDressmakersDoll by Agatha Christie, pg 60. Illustrated by Jen Corace, its inclusion pays homage to the tradition of short story publishing in magazines.
We may have been caught up in murder and intrigue this issue but in contrast London comes alive at this time of year. We’ve devoted our news section to events around town but don’t forget to leave a space in your diary for the next Selvedge fair, 17th September, pg 14!
Polly Leonard Editor in Chief
How do you celebrate Halloween?
CHRISTY MCCAFFREY pg 24
ALYSSA NASSNER pg 71
SUSY PILGRIM WATERS pg 46
We've had a party every year since forever, and it gets bigger and crazier every time. I love how everyone is freer in costume, more daring and actually friendlier. It's easier than you think to go up and dance with a giant monster squid, when you're dressed like a sexy pizza...
Halloween is one of my favourite holidays, it's always a blast to come up with fun costumes. I remember when I was a kid my mom made me a kangaroo costume and I went around and collected candy in my pouch! That was probably the best thing I've ever been for Halloween.
Truthfully? I hide under the kitchen table with a nice glass of pinot noir and a blanket on the top till all the visitors have gone away. If I can get my hubby to join me, even better. Despite living in America I am not a fan of Halloween and all our neighbours tease me...
in f o r m s e l v e d g e . o r g