relax, handknit, create

R O W A N

Telephone 01484 681881 Email: mail@knitrowan.com www.knitrowan.com Essie, Rowan M

agazine 37

PG Tips magazine advertisement c1970 The Advertising Archive

Selvedge Magazine Editorial office PO Box 40038 N6 5UW editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org Editorial T: 020 8341 0248 Subscriptions T: 020 8341 9721 Advertising T: 020 8341 7880

Publisher: Selvedge ltd

Editor: Polly Leonard, editor@selvedge.org Art Director: Helena Thomas, design@selvedge.org Features Editor: Elizabeth Smith, subeditor@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw, copy@selvedge.org Picture Editor: Jane Larkin, images@selvedge.org Editorial Manager: Sabrina Iken, assistant@selvedge.org E-Marketing Manager: Clare de Lotbiniere, marketing@selvedge.org Subscriptions: Beth Hale, subscriptions@selvedge.org Advertising: advertising@selvedge.org Accounts: Marco Tuveri, accounts@selvedge.org

Contributing Editors: Jessica Hemmings Anne Morrell Michael Brennand-Wood Amy de la Haye Karen Nicol Philip Hughes Clare Lewis Catherine Harper

Selvedge (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published six times a year by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London N6 5QA Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2004. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: St Ives Roche Ltd. Paper: Hello Silk Board 250g, Hello Matt 130g, Challenger Offset 110g. Colour Origination: PH Media, Roche. Web Design: datadial. Original design concept and identity: Direct Design. Distribution: Mercury International Ltd. Periodicals Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, C/O Mercury Airfreight International Ltd, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £36.00; Europe €65.00; USA $85.00; rest of world £60.00 Web Magazine, UK £20.00; Europe €30.00; USA $40.00; rest of world £20.00 REGULARS

Contents

FEATURES

04 bias / contributors We congratulate recent competiton winners and ask our contributors for their domestic tips and rituals.

05 correspond / enquire We welcome your questions, comments and criticism.

06 inform, inspire, insight Four pages of news, trends and novel ideas.

16 expose A relaxed visit to Alison Morton's tranquil but productive studio.

20 runway: Renaissance fashion From Armani to Prada, Italian style dominates men's fashion: but how can British manufacturers regain their place in the sun?

24 runway Shirin Guild truly understands the materials she works with. We profile the work of this thoughtful designer.

28 project Head of the household. From Martha Stewart to Cath Kidston we examine the surprising staying power of the domestic goddess.

46 global Uncommon beauty: the accidental art of Japanese Boro Textiles.

52 concept Cool and considered: Norwegian artists are profoundly aware of their history.

56 cohabit Carolyn Quartermaine’s delightful textile designs.

74 Joie de Vivre Doesn't everyone deserve to see Paris in the Spring?

81 quintessence Sherri Donghia demonstrates an unerring eye for the finer things in life.

82 read Amulets, Inside Africa and The New Boutique: reviews of the latest books.

84 view Joseph Beuys and The London Look: critiques of the latest shows.

90 divulge / declare / disclose International listings and previews.

11 Spick and span Practical products to help your home sparkle this Spring.

13 True colours Shades of turquoise, tan and tobacco add a touch of sophisticated freshness to fashion and interiors.

14 Radical Chic Miu Miu offers a more relaxed approach to fashion. This Spring bold pattern and colour take us back to the Summer of Love.

36 All washed up In the current domestic revival textile artists are set to clean up but are tea towels now too posh for our plates?

40 The Fabric Workshop and Museum in Philadelphia is a haven for innovative and industrious artists.

42 Jute Industry in Dundee An often overlooked but hard wearing fabric that helped win the west.

44 Governments and entrepreneurs were dying to uncover the secrets of Turkey Red for centuries but their hard won mastery was shortlived.

62 Freddie Robins traces the growing appeal of knitting and unravels its chequered history.

79 Agnes Martin produced subtle works that struck an unexpected chord with weavers. Jessica Hemmings traces their natural affinity.

89 Coming next The Blossom Issue, all things bright and beautiful. We celebrate our 1st birthday and our enduring love of floral fabrics!

95 Stockists Where to find us.

96 Subscription offers A beautiful Teresa Green tea towel worth £12 for every new subscriber plus the chance to win a luxury weekend in Paris or tickets to see Matisse: The Fabric of Dreams at the RA.

3

c o n t e n t s s e l v e d g e . o r g