R O W A N

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Frida on White Bench, Nickolas Murray, 1939 © Nickolas Murray Photo Archives

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Editor: Polly Leonard, editor@selvedge.org Art Director: Helena Thomas, design@selvedge.org Features Editor: Elizabeth Smith, subeditor@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw, copy@selvedge.org Picture Editor: Jane Larkin, images@selvedge.org Editorial Manager: Sabrina Iken, assistant@selvedge.org e-Marketing Manager: Clare De Lotbiniere, e-marketing@selvedge.org Subscriptions Manager: Kate Karko, subscriptions@selvedge.org Promotions Manager: Beth Hale enquiries@selvedge.org Advertising: enquiries@selvedge.org Accounts: Marco Tuveri, accounts@selvedge.org interns Laura Service

Emma Caple Jessica Preston

Contributing Editors: Jessica Hemmings Anne Morelle Michael Brennand-Wood Amy de la Haye Karen Nicol Philip Hughes Clare Lewis Catherine Harper Elana Dixon.

Telephone 01484 681881 Email: mail@knitrowan.com www.knitrowan.com lBeach Coo itty in Cotton Braid from

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Selvedge (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published six times a year by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 35 Ballards Lane, London, N3 1XW. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2004. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: St Ives Roche Ltd. Paper: Hello Silk Board 250g, Hello Matt 130g, Challenger Offset 110g. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Original design concept and identity: Direct Design. Distribution: Mercury International Ltd. Periodicals Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, C/O Mercury Airfreight International Ltd, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £36.00; Europe ⇔65.00; USA $85.00; rest of world £60.00 Web Magazine, UK £20.00; Europe ⇔30.00; USA $40.00; rest of world £20.00 REGULARS

Contents

FEATURES

04

bias Letter from the editor.

05

correspond / enquire We welcome your questions, comments and criticism.

07 inform, inspire, insight Four pages of news, trends and novel ideas.

13 indulge A rose by any other name: this season's prettiest florals on furniture, throws and a fabulous tent.

15 miscellany Sultry summer days: throw on your flip flops and kick back in a stripy deckchair.

16 runway Rebels with a cause. Marni strikes out for freedom, beauty and the right to clash.

18 expose Highest heights,

30 project Green fingers, the enduring appeal of English floral fabrics and the evolution of the country garden.

38 runway It takes two: the working partnerships of Eley Kishimoto and Clements Ribeiro.

64 connect Frida Kahlo is an international icon but her image was carefully constructed and founded on traditional Mexican dress.

76 collect Gilly Newberry's collection of fine fabrics documents a golden age of textile printing.

81 quintessence A snapshot of Clarissa Hulse's studio and the wealth of sources that inspire her.

82 read Reviews of the latest books that speak volumes.

84 view Critiques of the latest shows.

86 divulge / declare / disclose International listings and previews.

24 Old world ideals and new world entrepreneurial spirit: Lotta Jansson’s beautiful prints are being celebrated across the design world.

28 Flight of fancy The finest florals are taking shape for summer.

36 Quintessentially English, Liberty prints are instantly recognisable but alongside its traditional appeal the company has a hidden history of innovation.

46 Itsy bitsy They provoked public indecency trials and moral outrage, we uncover the scandalous history of the bikini.

48 Flexible friend It's not stretching the truth to say that Lycra changed our lives.

56 An educated guess Mary Schoeser heads back to school to uncover new trends in textile teaching.

60 Pick of the crop Our top graduates reveal a wealth of budding new talent, see them in action with our comprehensive degree show listings.

66 Volcanic lakes, charming colonial towns and colourful costumes – Guatemala has a traveller's needs covered.

72 Waxwork Indonesia's traditional textile skills have survived hell and high water yet it’s craftspeople continue to produce the world’s finest batik.

93 Coming next The Uniform Issue: the politics, pomp and ceremony of dress. We examine the desire to fit in and the role of the outsider.

95 Stockists Where to find us.

96 Subscription offers A stylish Lotta Jansdotter mini tote worth £20 for every new subscriber, plus tickets to see Frida Kahlo at the Tate Modern and stunning Clarissa Hulse silk cushions.

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