R O W A N

relax, handknit, create

UK cover: John Cowan, 1964, The Conde Nast Archive / Corbis

Telephone 01484 681881 Email: mail@knitrowan.com www.knitrowan.com agazine 38

Rowan M

Analise andAphelius,

US cover: Aidan McCarthy Selvedge Magazine Editorial office PO Box 40038 N6 5UW editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org Editorial T: 020 8341 0248 Subscriptions T: 020 8341 9721 Advertising T: 020 8341 7880

Editor: Polly Leonard, editor@selvedge.org Art Director: Helena Thomas, design@selvedge.org Features Editor: Elizabeth Smith, subeditor@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw, copy@selvedge.org Editorial Business Co-ordinator: Sabrina Iken, assistant@selvedge.org Marketing Manager: Clare De Lotbiniere, e-marketing@selvedge.org Subscriptions Manager: Ros Earl, subscriptions@selvedge.org Advertising: Serefima Bogolomova: enquiries@selvedge.org Editorial Intern: Alexandra Ashby

Contributing Editors: Jessica Hemmings Anne Morrell Michael Brennand-Wood Amy de la Haye Karen Nicol Philip Hughes Clare Lewis Catherine Harper Elana Dickson.

Selvedge (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published 6 times a year by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2004. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision is final. Views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material cannot be returned. Printing: St Ives Roche Ltd. Paper: Hello Silk Board 200g, Hello Matt 100g, Challenger Offset 100g. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Original design concept: Direct Design. Distribution: Mercury International Ltd. Periodicals Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send corrections to Selvedge Magazine, C/O Mercury Airfreight International Ltd, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £36.00; Europe €65.00; USA $85.00; rest of world £60.00 Web Magazine, UK £20.00; Europe €30.00; USA $40.00; rest of world £20.00 Contents

INDULGE textiles to buy, collect or simply admire. 20 Christmas Shopping The development of the retail industry and the changing desires of consumers. 37 Neck and Neck A round up of the finest scarves and the designer-makers that produce them. 81 Quintessence Clare Tough has an unusual approach to knitwear.

INDUSTRY from craft to commerce. 14 In the heart land Del Cerro textiles show a commitment to people and place. 30 Dark days and long nights We explore the dying art of traditional button mattress making. 30 Class act Weekend workshops and short courses prove knowledge is powerful even in short doses.

ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives. 46 A warm hand A gathering of makers who specialise in gorgeous Swedish gloves. 51 Penpal In praise of the written word and fine stationery. 55 Cast in stone A fanciful use of fabric and drapery in architecture.

CONCEPT textiles in fine art. 48 Following the thread Laila Karttunen, a struggling Finnish artist who found a new path. 75 All that glitters Unconventional but desirable, textile jewellery is beginning to shine.

ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends. 20 There's nothing like fur to divide opinion among fashion folk. We enter this perennial heated debate. 22 Athenian glamour Sophia Kokosalaki helps mere mortals bring out their inner goddess. 32 Straight laced A bodice-ripping examination of a once demure fabric.

COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed. 26 Sleep tight We weigh the merits and history of sheets, duvets and blankets. 40 Bored with boards and chilly toes? A return to rugs and carpets could be coming but now they have an edge. 70 Queen of the Castle Tartan was developed for camouflage but this home stands out.

GLOBAL travel destinations and ethnographic textiles. 60 Grand tour Intrepid traveller Sheila Paine shares her expertise and her stunning collection. 68 On the silk road Textiles in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.

INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings.

04 bias / contributors 07 news Trends and essential ideas 35 miscellany Feather light 84 read Wired Africa meets Africa Silken Threads Pierre Cardin

Blahnik by Boman 86 international listings 88 view Marimekko Modes en Memoir Revealed The Flower Bed The Nureyev Style Jo Pierce: Can I cut it? Techniques of Memory

97 coming next The Re issue. Rethink, reclaim and re-examine textiles. 95 stockists 80 subscription offers A free 2006 mini calendar for new subscribers, renewals, and gift subscriptions.

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