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Telephone 01484 681881 Email: mail@knitrowan.com www.knitrowan.com relax, handknit, create

Toast, A/W 2005, Photo: Sarah Maingot, Styling Kristen Perers

Selvedge Magazine Editorial office PO Box 40038 N6 5UW editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org Editorial T: 020 8341 0248 Subscriptions T: 020 8341 9721 Advertising T: 020 8341 7880

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Editor: Polly Leonard, editor@selvedge.org Art Director: Helena Thomas, design@selvedge.org Features Editor: Elizabeth Smith, subeditor@selvedge.org News Editor: Clare Lewis, images@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw, copy@selvedge.org Editorial & Business Manager: Sabrina Iken, assistant@selvedge.org Marketing Manager: Clare De Lotbiniere, e-marketing@selvedge.org Subscriptions Manager: Kate Karko, subscriptions@selvedge.org Acting Subscriptions Manager: Ros Earl, subscriptions@selvedge.org Advertising: Serefima Bogolomova: enquiries@selvedge.org

Contributing Editors:

Jessica Hemmings Anne Morrell Michael Brennand-Wood Amy de la Haye Karen Nicol Philip Hughes Catherine Harper Elana Dickson.

Selvedge (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published six times a year by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2004. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: St Ives Roche Ltd. Paper: Hello Silk Board 200g, Hello Matt 100g, Challenger Offset 100g. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Original design concept and identity: Direct Design. Distribution: Mercury International Ltd. Periodicals Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, C/O Mercury Airfreight International Ltd, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £36.00; Europe ⇔65.00; USA $85.00; rest of world £60.00 Web Magazine, UK £20.00; Europe ⇔30.00; USA $40.00; rest of world £20.00 Contents

INDULGE textiles to buy, collect or simply admire. 13 Inner light Each scarf woven by Rezia Wahid reflects her beliefs and her positive state of mind. 76 Full sale ahead Some customers never knowingly pay full price. Love or loath them, sales are everywhere. 81 Quintessence Helen Yardley’s rugs make every home an art house.

INDUSTRY from craft to commerce. 16 The price is right Tariff: charge, cost, tax, toll; the ongoing debate and issues surrounding textiles tariffs. 32 The circle of life Changing the world through textiles, eco chic is much more than a trend.

ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives. 54 In the bag Feed Sack Clothing in America. 96 Warming up Hudson’s Bay Point Blankets.

CONCEPT textiles in fine art. 22 Multiple layers An interview with Chunghie Lee, an artist who sees Korean traditions in a modern light. 56 Making the connection Fiona Rutherford’s journey to Japan was a life-changing experience.

ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends. 60 Lights, camera, action Toast would travel to the ends of the earth to do their clothes justice. 72 Once bitten, twice shy Independent fashion label Ghulam Sakina is back in the spotlight.

COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed. 42 A soft touch Paper and paint may seem like your only options but your walls could be better dressed. 44 Cover up More than a quick fix, re-upholstering offers your furniture a new lease of life. 46 Painterly patterns Fabric companies have a history of tempting artists into the commercial arena.

GLOBAL travel destinations and ethnographic textiles. 24 January in Jaipur Visit the Rose Pink City, a fount of the Arts and home to a fabulous festival. 52 Textiles without frontiers Dorothy Reglar uses her skills to help at home and abroad. 68 The accidental purist Asha Sarabhi never intended to spend her life in pursuit of textile perfection.

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INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings.

04 bias / contributors 07 news Trends and essential ideas 35 miscellany say to yourself what would you be? 84 read 19th Century Fashion in Detail Dressing A Galaxy Wild: Fashion Untamed

A Family of Fashion Fashion Now 2 86 international listings 88 view Knitwork: Germaine Koh Interface Wearing Propaganda Madder Modes Michael Raedecker

2121-Reiko Sudo 97 coming next The Accessory issue 95 stockists 80 subscription offers Our biggest ever January sale! A Common Thread DVDs Riedizioni cosmetic bags Bookshop: new titles & offers s e l v e d g e . o r g