IMPRINT • IMPRESSUM TEXTILE FORUM English edition ISSN 1431-3529 TEXTILFORUM Deutsche Ausgabe ISSN 1431-3510 Published/Erscheint 4 x per annum, Publisher/Verlag: Textil-Forum-Service/B. Sterk Friedenstr. 5, P.O.Box/Postfach 5944, D-30059 Hannover; Tel: +49-(0)511/817007; Fax: /813108 E-mail: tfs@ETN-net.org Website: http://www.ETN-net.org/TFS/ Co-editor/Mitherausgeber: ETN Association (European Textile Network), Strasbourg Editor-in-chief/Chefredakteurin: Beatrijs Sterk Editorial staff/Redaktion: Dietmar Laue Translator/Übersetzerin: Susanne Mattern Advertising office/Anzeigen: Textil-ForumService, Hannover Layout/Herstellung: Ute Lehmann Printed by/Druck: Bonifatius GmbH Druck Buch Verlag, Paderborn Single magazine/Einzelheft: Euro 11,– plus postage/zzgl. Versandkosten Subscription/Abonnement International (calendar year only): Euro 46,– (or reduced price of Euro 41,– if payment is made by postal order or Diners Club/Eurocard/ Visa) Abonnement/Deutschland (Kalenderjahr!): Euro 41,– (Reduktion um Euro 5,– = Euro 36,– bei Zahlung per Bankeinzug) Bank account/Bankverbindung: Textil-ForumService/B. Sterk, account no./Kto.-Nr. 20733-301 (bank code/BLZ 250 100 30) Postbank Hannover

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Look at ETN’s Website http://www.ETN-net.org TITLE • TITEL

Nanna van Blaaderen/NL Experimental knitting Nanna van Blaaderen/NL Experimentelle Strickerei

Photo: N. v. Blaaderen, Amsterdam

TEXTILFORUM 1/2008 TEXTILE FORUM 1/2008 BERICHTE REPORTS

SEITE PAGE

Informationen aus deutschsprachigen Ländern (mit Kalender)

Information from German-speaking countries __________________ 2 Die Kunstbiennale 'Textile 07' in Kaunas, Litauen Monika Auch

The Kaunas Art Biennial 'Textile 07', Lithuania

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Zypern für Textiltouristen – Eine neue Textilroute Cyprus for textile tourists – A new Textile Route

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Drei Textil- und Modeausstellungen in Paris und Saint Etienne

Three textile and fashion exhibitions in France Karin Thönnissen 12 VORSCHAU PREVIEW Wettbewerbe, Treffen/Kurse Competitions, Meetings/Courses ______________________________ 14 Späte Entdeckung: Das Deutsche Ledermuseum B. Sterk & D. Laue A late discovery: The German Leather Museum in Offenbach ____ 15 Diverse Ausstellungen Diverse exhibitions __________________________________________ 16

STRICKKUNST KNITTING ART Strick' oder stirb – Die neue Strickrevolution Freddie Robins Knit or Die – The New Knitting Revolution,

a perspective from London ___________________________________ 18 Die gestrickte Hochzeit Freddie Robins

The Knitted Wedding ________________________________________ 21 Ich begann mit dem Stricken, um das Denken zu beenden

I started knitting to stop thinking Sabrina Gschwandtner ________ 22 Strickkunst: Botschaften und Installationen Knitting Art: Messages and Installations _______________________ 24 Strickphantasien: Marie-Rose Lortet/Ksenija Baraga/Blanka Sperková Knitted fantasies ____________________________________________ 28 Strickmode und -kostüme Knitted fashion and costumes ____________________________________ 30 Strickstoffe und -accessoires Knitted fashion and accessoires 34 "Verwischende Grenzen", Ausstellung in Australien Vishna Collins "Blurring the Boundaries", an exhibition in Australia 40

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BÜCHER Besprechungen BOOK REVIEWS

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VERANSTALTUNGSKALENDER International CALENDAR OF EVENTS __________________________________ 44 AUSBLICK TEXTILFORUM 2/2008 PREVIEW TEXTILE FORUM 2/2008 ____________________________ 57 EDITORIAL

Freddie RobinsŠ our London source of information for the Englishšspeaking world of knitting artistsŠ commenced her studies in 1984. She completed her Master of Art course at the Royal College of ArtŠ where she now teaches. She has worked on many commissionsŠ participated in international exhibitiš onsŠ been invited to curate such exhiš bitionsŠ and made study trips to other citiesŠ including Berlin. Photo: Dag Fosse

We first devoted an issue of our magazine to knitting 2Š years ago (TF 3/8Š€. At the time, Constance Willems, a Dutchwoman working in Germany, reported that there had been renewed interest in the knitting technique among UK artists for ca. 7 years, i.e. since about 1977. Even at that early stage, the name “Kaffe Fassett” came up in this context; we illustrated an unusually designed knitted jacket of his in our magazine. The American Kaffe Fassett who lives in Žondon, has now become an icon of textile design, and was featured again in our magazine in TF 3/86, the year I visited him as I wished to publicise his book, “Glorious Knitting”, in Germany.

In 1983 Suzy ženkes wrote her book, “The Knitwear Revolution”, which caused a tide that swept along many designers and artists, mostly in Western and Northern Europe. Freddie Robins writes in this issue that she, too, was inspired to emphasise knitting in her studies at that time (see p. 19€. 1983 was also the year when French artist Fanny Viollet began her knitting performances in public spaces (see p. 2Š€.

Žet us remember: In the wake of the 1968 movement, odd knitting phenomena began to appear in public. Students knitted in lecture theatres during classes. In Germany, one could observe delegates knitting at meetings of the new Green Party. In France, artist Annette žessager (1971€ came to the fore as a knitter (see feature on Fanny Viollet, p. 2Š€, but did not attract followers until much later. The knitting movement began among the people, prompted by the general protest and reform movement, and the sublimating effect of art set in at a later stage.

The same seems to hold true for the second knitting movement that we witness in these days. We presume that it originated with the North American debate on feminism as the first Stitch & Bitch group formed in New York in 1997, and their internet visitors’ book, the so-called “Stitch’n Bitch Café”, was set up in 1998. In this issue, we have consciously decided not to include the Stitch’n Bitch movement; it may share its origins with our theme, but does not have the same artistic intention. It began in the USA and then spread to Europe via the UK, but its meetings appeal to people who wish to get together to knit and crochet, and for whom the social aspect is paramount. We thus limit ourselves to the following comment:

Debbie Stoller, who many consider the founder of the Stitch’n Bitch movement, wrote her Ph.D. thesis on the “Psychology of Women” at Yale University, USA. In 2003 she began editing a series of publications, the first of which was entitled “Stitch’n Bitch: The Knitters Handbook”. If you conduct an internet search on the key words ‘Stitch’n Bitch’, you will discover a wealth of information on knitting initiatives all over the world. Only recently, on 18th November 2007, a supra-regional Stitch’n Bitch Day took place in Rotterdam, backed by the nearly 30 regional groups that exist in the Netherlands. We believe this is yet another occasion when art follows a general trend in the populace because here, art depends on public response, and results from an impetus generated “in the streets”. Thanks to the internet, the current trend appears to be more wide-spread than the first knitting movement. Beatrijs Sterk

Knitting in advertising and as an

imitation of advertisements: Knitted warning against smoking in street advertisementsŠ HannoverŠ 2008

Knitted advertisement by Kelly Jenkins/UK entitled "Knit Chatlines"

exhibited at the "Knit 2 Together"

exhibitionŠ LondonŠ 2004