IMPRINT • IMPRESSUM TEXTILE FORUM English edition ISSN 1431-3529 TEXTILFORUM Deutsche Ausgabe ISSN 1431-3510 Published/Erscheint 4 x per annum, Publisher/Verlag: Textil-Forum-Service/B. Sterk Friedenstr. 5, P.O.Box/Postfach 5944, D-30059 Hannover; Tel: +49-(0)511/817007; Fax: /813108 E-mail: tfs@ETN-net.org Website: http://www.ETN-net.org/TFS/ Co-editor/Mitherausgeber: ETN Association (European Textile Network), Strasbourg Editor-in-chief/Chefredakteurin: Beatrijs Sterk Editorial staff/Redaktion: Dietmar Laue Translator/Übersetzerin: Susanne Mattern Advertising office/Anzeigen: Textil-ForumService, Hannover Layout/Herstellung: Ute Lehmann Printed by/Druck: Bonifatius GmbH Druck Buch Verlag, Paderborn Single magazine/Einzelheft: Euro 12,– plus postage/zzgl. Versandkosten (ab/from on 2009) Subscription/Abonnement International (calendar year only): Euro 50,– (or reduced price of Euro 45,– if payment is made by postal order or Diners Club/Eurocard/ Visa) Abonnement/Deutschland (Kalenderjahr!): Euro 45,– (Reduktion um Euro 5,– = Euro 40,– bei Zahlung per Bankeinzug) Bank account/Bankverbindung: Textil-ForumService/B. Sterk, account no./Kto.-Nr. 20733-301 (bank code/BLZ 250 100 30) Postbank Hannover

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Philippa Brock/UK: "#ARR14" from the Self Assembly series, detail 2008, Jacquard woven, silk, polyester/Lycra see page 28 Philippa Brock/USA: "#ARR14" aus der Serie Self Assembly, Detail 2008, Jacquardgewebe Seide, Polyester/Lycra, siehe Seite 28

TEXTILFORUM 1/2009 TEXTILE FORUM 1/2009 BERICHTE REPORTS

SEITE PAGE

Informationen aus deutschsprachigen Ländern (mit Kalender)

Information from German-speaking countries __________________ 6 Diverse Ausstellungsberichte Divers exhibition reports 11 Ein inspirierendes Jacquarddesign-Treffen Beatrijs Sterk An inspiring Jacquard design meeting in the USA 12 Das 7. Int. Shibori-Symposium in Frankreich V. Moos-Brochhagen

The 7th International Shibori Symposium in France

14

VORSCHAU PREVIEW Messen, Wettbewerbe, Treffen/Kurse

Fairs, Competitions, Meetings/Courses _________________________ 16 Diverse Ausstellungsvorschauen Divers exhibition previews 18 REVITALISIERUNG ALTER TEXTILZENTREN − NEUES FÜR DIE FORTBILDUNG REVIVAL OF OLD TEXTILE ENTRES – NEW EDUCATIONAL CHALLENGES Das Textile Zentrum Haslach Christina Leitner

The Haslach Textile Centre – A vision is taking shape _____________ 22 TWIST – Profile und Perspektiven europäischer Textilstudien Marga Persson

TWIST – Profiles and Perspectives in European Textile Studies __ 25 Textile Zentren; Das Int. Stroud Festival B. Lane & Lizzi Walton

Textile Centres; The Stroud International Textile Festival _______ 26 Die Ausstellung 'Jacquard' Beatrijs Sterk

The exhibition 'Thinking different: Thing JacquART' ___________ 28 Das West Dean College Robert Pulley

The West Dean College – A remarkable school for craftmakers ____ 30 Das Zentrum für Zeitgenössische Textilien in Montreal Louise L. Bérubé

The Montreal Centre of Contemporary Textiles ________________ 31 Die 'Oriole Mill' – Eine Jacquardweberei neuen Typs Beatrijs Sterk

The Oriole Mill – A new kind of Jacquard weaving mill

32

Die Lisio-Stiftung Eva Basile

The Lisio Foundation – A passion for Jacquard design and weaving 34 Die Wetterhoff-Webwerkstatt; Ein Kolloquium mit Lia Cook

The Wetterhoff Textile Workshop; A colloquium with Lia Cook 36 ACTE-Projekte Laura Fiesoli; Ausbildung bei ATELIER M.-Th. Chaupin ACTE projects: Twintes and Eurotex ID; Training with ATELIER 32 SONDERBERICHT SPECIAL REPORT 'Vielen Dank Peter Collingwood!' Anne Mieke Kooper

'Thank you Peter Collingwood' ________________________________ 40 BÜCHER Besprechungen BOOK REVIEWS 42 VERANSTALTUNGSKALENDER International CALENDAR OF EVENTS __________________________________ 44 AUSBLICK TEXTILFORUM 2/2009 PREVIEW TEXTILE FORUM 2/2009 ____________________________ 57 The new Textile Centre in Haslach,

Upper Žustria;

the former Vonwiller Weaving Mill

EDITORIAL

In this issue, we return to a theme first addressed in detail in TF 3/94, “European Textile Regions”, and which has lost none of its topicality since: entire lines of production in the textile and clothing industry have been relocated outside Europe, leaving brownfield sites behind. Traditional skills fall into oblivion and when required may be unavailable for developing new product and process ideas. Fifteen years after publication of the above-mentioned article, even those in charge of still-operational textile centres realise that industry and trade must become allied with culture and education (see page 38€. All former, and currently active, textile regions face issues such as what to do with abandoned buildings, redundant skilled labour, disused machines, and provisionally stored documents of a dying production culture.

In a feature entitled “Mühlviertel Fabric Design”, published in TF 4/07, we reported on an exemplary initiative in Upper Austria, and learnt the following:

Ten years of endeavour by the municipality of Haslach, the state of Upper Austria and the European Union to revive a factory complex will be concluded in 2009, when a new Textile ∑entre opens in the

former Vonwiller weaving mill that once employed more than 2,000 people.

The future cultural centre will include a textile museum and a wool processing workshop for disadvantaged people, and will also house Textile Kultur Haslach, an association that organises major textile gatherings annually, offering courses, exhibitions, symposia and a weavers’ market.

Recent news is that the only remaining school for weaving technicians in Austria, based in Haslach, will be forced to close its doors due to a shortage of students. The organisers of the new Textile ∑entre must now address the questions of whether, and how, the school’s modern dobby and jacquard looms can be used for training programmes, based on the example of other countries.

Situated in the Austrian/∑zech/ German border triangle, the ∑entre will have a far-reaching impact on all those countries. Its staff hopes to help create an active network of European textile centres that will support creative, educational, conservation and tourist activities by means of joint ventures, and effectively strengthen structures in the respective textile regions.

Historical damask loom at the old Weaving Museum in Haslach

THE 15th ETN CONFERENCE 2009 Berlin was the original location planned for this event, but had to be abandoned at the preparatory stage due to insufficient response; consequently, the ETN Board decided to lend every possible support to the, currently very dynamic, initiative in Upper Austria, and to hold the ∑onference there. Another factor in the decision was the local TEXTIŽE KUŽTUR HASŽA∑H association which has been a member of ETN for many years, and is also an important station in the European Textile Routes published on the internet.

This year’s ∑onference is now scheduled in Haslach, which may seem like “the sticks” after Žondon, but is in fact a delightful holiday destination in a former flax growing region with a long textile industrial tradition. Moreover, it is a hub as regards current issues relevant to our field of interest, a cultural revival of old textile centres presenting new challenges to further education−

This issue gives space to several people who will be active in the forthcoming ∑onference as programme organisers, speakers or course instructors, and will act as contacts for international participants in these capacities.

Issue TF 3/94, mentioned earlier, contained a feature entitled “The Network of Textile Regions”, where we outlined five areas requiring regional work in culture; one discussed the need to establish a decentralised European summer academy offering a coordinated educational programme for professional textile and clothing designers, and covering all major cultural and technological developments that exist in specific European regions. Žike so many other essential projects, it has not been possible to provide such a, jointly organised, educational programme to date, due to local or regional patriotism in people’s mentalities. When we meet in Haslach, we will see whether the passage of 15 years, and President Obama’s call for change, have prepared Europe to take a turn for the better. Dietmar„Laue/Beatrijs„Sterk

From left: Chritina Leitner, Vibeke Vestby and Beatrijs Sterk working on the jacquard exhibition (see pp− 28/29)