BRIEF NOTES

FAIR FASHION? – A COMPARISON OF CLOTHING COMPANIES The Berne Declaration has conducted an evaluation of companies based on a 2010 survey addressing four subject areas: 1) Transparency, 2) Recognition of labour rights (code of conduct), 3) Procurement policy (application of the code) and 4) Control and monitoring of minimum social standards. Special attention was given to steps taken to improve working conditions in supplier companies, most of which are located in low-wage countries.

In total, only 54 of the over 80 companies approached completed the questionnaire, which contained 160 questions relating to 27 topics. In addition, information provided by the companies about themselves in the public domain was evaluated.

Researchers found that the companies confronted with the questions roughly fall into four categories: 15% refuse to participate; 14% show neglect, meaning that social responsibility is obviously not one of their priorities; 48% are so-called novices and 5% are advanced. The latter 4 companies are all registered in Switzerland.

Individual results for respondents and a number of details worth knowing about the survey can be found on the Berne Declaration website: www.evb.ch/fairfashion Many companies have now joined so-called Corporate Social Responsibility groups, although most of them are primarily interested in „greenwashing“, for instance those involved in the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI, some 600 members). The Fair Wear Foundation (FWF, some 50 members) is more responsible as it works with external auditors (http://fairwear.org); it is based in Amsterdam like the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC, website: http://www.cleanclothes.org). Dietmar Laue

6 TextileForum 1/2011

NEW PROFESSOR OF TEXTILE HISTORY Without public resonance, the Institute of Art History, Berne University, Switzerland, appointed Dr. Birgitt BorkoppRestle as its new Professor of Textile Art History, the only position of its kind in the German-speaking countries.

In TF 3/08, page 2, we reported on the funding of this chair by the Abegg Foundation, which has provided SFr 5 million for a full professor. The position was supposed to be filled as of February 2009. Our enquiries addressed to the Abegg Foundation and the university asking who would take the position and when, remained unanswered. The institute’s research focuses on the following subjects: ● Medieval and early modern history ● Textile objects as means of representation for royalty and the bourgeoisie ● Museum and collection history and related theories ● History of craft research ● Cultural transfer between Europe and the Orient ● Reception of the Middle Ages in the 19th century ● Presentation and explanation of applied art objects in a museum context The “museum context” prevails! We would have hoped for a bridge between history and the present, and for an exchange with the creative textile scene that ensures we will have a historic body of work in future.

Before Professor Birgitt Borkopp-Restle (born in Neuss/D in 1958) took her new position in Berne, she worked for the textile collection of the Bavarian National Museum, and was appointed Director of the Cologne Museum of Applied Art on 1st February 2005. Current address: Universität Bern, Philosophischhistorische Fakultät, Institut für Kunstgeschichte, Abteilung für Geschichte der textilen Künste, Hodlerstr. 8, CH-3011 Bern; tel: +41-31/6313202; fax: /6318669; email: birgitt. borkopp@ikg.unibe.ch; http://www.ikg.unibe.ch

DIGITAL EDITION OF TEXTILE FORUM MAGAZINE

Aside from subscriptions for the printed and bound versions of magazines, there exist an offer of the reduced price subscription to the digital version of Textile Forum magazine. It offers both advantages and disadvantages, one drawback being that copies have to be read on-screen, requiring many scroll movements. In TF 4/09, p. 24 we first mentioned this new offer.

Thanks to the software provided by EXACT EDITIONS, the company that services digital editions, there are several benefits:

Users can get a clear idea of the content the digital edition offers by viewing a complete sample copy free of charge, including all the service functions connected with the system. They can also browse small-format versions of all other issues available on the net. The title page and table of contents of each issue can be enlarged and printed, allowing users to get an overview of the content of all issues available on the net before making the decision to subscribe e.g. to the English digital edition of Textile Forum (www.tfs-etn.com). Naturally, subscription copies of the magazine can be read in full, and contain the following extras:

● Each page can be printed either in pdf format or as a draft version for a quick read. ● Sections of text and images can be zoomed to the desired size and transferred to blogs. ● A search function offers users the option of searching for names or keywords on specific themes a) in the open copy of the magazine only; b) in all available digital issues of Textile Forum; or c) in all digital magazines available from Exact Editions. ● All URLs and e-mail addresses provided in Textile Forum can be accessed directly. ● Subscribers who have installed telephone software (such as Skype) on their computer have direct access to the telephone numbers given in the magazine. ● Clicking on the postcodes of most addresses will show their location on a Google map that appears on the screen. ● Clicking on the ISBN codes of publications will lead users directly to the relevant pages on amazon.com An ABOUT button located at the top right of the homepage for the digital magazine will open a “Frequently Asked Questions” page that answers any questions readers may still have.

INFORMATION ON CULTURAL EXCHANGE The “on the move” network maintains a website for European cultural projects, promotional programmes, training courses, competitions etc. The information it supplies is continuously updated. We recommend consulting the website on a regular basis (www.on-the-move.org).

‚SECOND LIVES‘ This exhibition, subtitled ‚The Age-Old Art of Recycling Textiles‘, is on view at the Washington Textile Museum from 4th Feb. 2011 to 8th Jan. 2012. It presents 18 objects from the museum’s permanent collection, most of them precious historic textiles that were fashioned into new objects for everyday use in various parts of the world, for instance China, India, Central Asia, Japan and the North West Pacific region (http:// www.textilemuseum.org).

THE TEXERE NEWSLETTER The Textile Education Working Group within ETN is publishing a 12 page Newsletter with many interesting contributions by its members. This Newsletter can be read free of costs on the website of this group (www.texere.u-net.dk). The summer issue of this year is publishing, among other things, reports on the 7th Intl. Valcellina Award in Italy, the Intl. Textile Festival in Holland and the Feltrosa International Conference in Prato/Italy. TEXERE members will meet again in the frame of the 16th ETN Conference 2011 in Kaunas/Lithuania.

TEXTILE PROFESSOR WANTED IN THE USA The Rhode Island School of Design is still looking for an assistant professor for its Textile Department (see TF 4/2010, p. 48). Written applications may be submitted online (http://www.risd.edu/jobs) CALENDAR REGIONAL

EXHIBITIONS current exhibitions (see also page 46 and TF 4/10) 6.2. - 25.4.11 Asia - Europe. Fiber Art - Zeitgenössische Textilkunst im Dialog,

[textile art] http://www.krefeld.de/textilmuseum, Deutsches Textilmuseum Krefeld, Andreasmarkt 8, D-47809 Krefeld

2.3. - 26.4.11 Linientreu, [craft] http://www.craft2eu.net, Craft2eu

Ladengalerie, Eppendorfer Weg 231, D-20251 Hamburg

15.10.10 - 1.5.11 Décor, Design et Industrie - Les arts appliqués à Genève,

Musée d'art et d'histoire de Genève, Rue Charles-Galland 2, CH-1206 Genève

18.2. - 1.5.11 Sonderausstellung Patchwork & Porzellan, [patchwork & porcelain]

http://www.Textilmuseum.de, Oberfränkisches Textilmuseum Helmbrechts, Münchberger Str. 17, D-95233 Helmbrechts

19.2. - 8.5.11 Inge Flierl - Werkschau, [tapestries] Galerie Kunstgießerei Flierl,

http://www.kunstgiesserei-flierl.de, , Friesickestr. 17,

D-13086 Berlin

11.11.10 - 29.5.11 Satin, Samt und Seidenzauber - Glanzstücke aus der

Modesammlung, [fashion] Ortsmuseum Küsnacht, Tobelweg 1, CH-8700 Küsnacht

9.10.10 - 26.6.11 Hauptsache Hut! 150 Jahre Hutgeschichte(n), [hats]

Rheinisches Industriemuseum, www.lvr.de/orte/euskirchen, Museum "Tuchfabrik Müller"; Carl-Koenen-Str. 25b, D-53881 Euskirchen

28.11.10 - 18.9.11 Hedwig Scherrer - Streben nach dem Gesamtkunstwerk,

http://www.hmsg.ch, Historisches und Völkerkunde-Museum St. Gallen, Museumsstr.50, CH-9000 St. GallenDezember 2010

March 2011 19.3. - 27.3.11 Diplomausstellung Filzausbildung 2008-2010: Filz im Element,

[felt exhibition] http://www.zsag.ch/, Zürcher Stalder AG, Postfach, CH-3422 Kirchberg

19.3. - 15.4.11 Textour "Aufstand! der nichtsnutzigen Textilien", [Rag Revolution]

http://www.workshop-ev.de, Workshop e. V., Lister Meile 4, D-30161 Hannover

19.3. - 16.4.11 Textour: Körperhüllen, [Body shells] www.handwerksform.de,

Handwerksform Hannover, Berliner Allee 17,

D-30175 Hannover

26.3. - 30.12.11 StGall - Die Spitzengeschichte, [lace] www.textilmuseum.ch,

Textilmuseum, Vadianstr. 2,

CH-9000 St. Gallen

April 2011 1.4. - 25.4.11 Smock-Patchwork von Minke Heijstra "Glanz-Stücke", [patchwork] http://www.forum-mola-kunst.de, Forum MolaKunst, Schwachhauser Heerstr. 268a, D-28359 Bremen 15.4. - 8.5.11 Faszination Papier, [paper art] http://www.iapma.info, IAPMA

Intl. Assoc. Hand Papermakers and Paper Artists, c/o Helene Tschacher, Kirchenaecker 8, D-84048 Mainburg; venue: Kunstverein Burghausen

16.4. - 30.6.11 European Art Quilts VI, http://www.stadtmuseum-einbeck.de,

Städtisches Museum Einbeck, Steinweg 11, D-37574 Einbeck

29.4. - 24.7.11 Neue Masche - Gestrickt, Gestickt und Anders,

http://www.museum-bellerive.ch, Museum Bellerive, Höschgasse 3, CH-8008 Zürich

May 2011 6.5. - 29.5.11 Experimentelle Flächengestaltung mit Stoff und Papier "Schnittmenge", [experimental surface design] Forum Mola-Kunst, http://www.forum-mola-kunst.de, Schwachhauser Heerstr. 268a, D-28359 Bremen 10.5. - 21.5.11 Liberté d'orée, [students Fashion Design] tuchinform,

http://www.tuchinform.ch, Obere Kirchgasse 8,

CH-8400 Winterthur

13.5. - 29.5.11 Gruppe "Textil 13": "Dreierlei", [textile creation, weaving]

Ortsmuseum Meilen, Kirchgasse 14, CH-8706 Meilen

15.5. - 5.6.11 Faszination Papier, [paper art] http://www.iapma.info, IAPMA

Intl. Assoc. Hand Papermakers and Paper Artists, c/o Helene Tschacher, Kirchenaecker 8, D-84048 Mainburg; venue: Forum Kunst und Handwerk, Mainburg

15.5. - 31.8.11 Brocado Abierto: Textile Arbeiten von Gertraut Fuchs-Gerhart ,

[textile art] http://www.museum-heidelberg.de, Textilmuseum Max Berk, im Kurpfälzischen Museum der Stadt Heidelberg, Brahmsstr. 8, D-69118 Heidelberg-Ziegelhausen

28.5. - 17.6.11 Textil - Virus, IGW/UTA - [weaving exhibition] Interessengemeinschaft Weben, Sekretariat, Obere Bielastr. 33, CH-3900 Brig; venue: Zürcher-Stalder AG, Kirchberg BE

29.5. - 28.8.11 Zur Geschichte der Krefelder Seidenfabrik Wilhelm Schroeder,

[The history of the silk factory Wilhelm Schroeder] http://www.krefeld.de/textilmuseum, Deutsches Textilmuseum Krefeld, Andreasmarkt 8, D-47809 Krefeld

June 2011 2.6. - 5.6.11 Textile Kunstwerke der Bosna Quilt Werkstatt, [quilt art] Dachauer Wasserturm, Hofgartenweg, D-85221 Dachau 10.6. - 3.7.11 Textiler Schmuck und Accessoires von Rita Willy "Augenlust",

[accessories] http://www.forum-mola-kunst.de, Forum MolaKunst, Schwachhauser Heerstr. 268a, D-28359 Bremen

11.6. - 9.7.11 Simply Lace, http://www.handwerksform.de, Handwerksform

Hannover, Berliner Allee 17,

D-30175 Hannover

MEETINGS/COURSES 12.3. - 13.3.11 25 Jahre Deutsche Spitzengilde e.V. - Spitzen-Vielfalt 2011,

[lace meeting] http://www.spitzengilde.de, Deutsche Spitzengilde e.V., c/o Annemarie Lehnert; Markwaldstr. 19, D-63073 Offenbach; venue: Altenstadt an der Iller

29.4. - 1.5.11 29. Klöppelspitzen-Kongress, [Lace Congress]

http://www.deutscher-kloeppelverband.de, Deutscher Klöppelverband e.V., Schloss Zweibrüggen, D-52531 Übach-Palenberg; venue: Bad Pyrmont

20.5. - 21.5.11 International Symposium "Venetian Gros Point", [lace]

http://www.textilmuseum.ch, Textilmuseum & Textilbibliothek, Vadianstr. 2, CH-9000 St. Gallen

21.5. - 22.5.11 Kumihimo - Die japanische Kunst des Gürtelflechtens,

[Kumihimo course] email: regula.berger@gmx.de, Regula Berger, Flüeliweg 7, CH-3145 Niederscherli; venue: Kurszentrum Ballenberg

24.5. - 26.5.11 Techtextil (Symposium), http://www.messefrankfurt.com, Messe

Frankfurt GmbH, Postfach 150210, D-60062 Frankfurt/Main

10.6. - 13.6.11 Patchworktage 2011, [patchwork] http://www.patchworkgilde.de,

Patchworkgilde Deutschland e.V., Gutenbergstraße 33, D-44139 Dortmund; venue: Rüdesheim/Rhein

11.6. - 12.6.11 Rita Willy - "Augenlust - textiler Schmuck und Accessories",

[accessories] http://www.forum-mola-kunst.de, Forum MolaKunst, Schwachhauser Heerstr. 268a, D-28359 Bremen

15.7. - 23.7.11 19. Shibori-Kurs mit natürlichen Farbstoffen, [shibori course]

Merkel, Juliane; Auerbacher Str. 148, D-08107 Kirchberg; venue: D-14947 Gottsdorf

17.7. - 29.7.11 Textile Kultur Haslach, http://www.textile.kultur.haslach.at,

Textile Kultur Haslach, c/o Tourismusbüro; Marktplatz 45, A-4170 Haslach

22.9. - 24.9.11 Tagung 2011: "Mode und Bewegung", [Meeting: fashion and movement] http://www.zhdk.ch, Netzwerk Mode Textil e.V., c/o Prof. Dr. Jutta Beder; Simrockallee 27, D-53173 Bonn; venue: Zürcher Hochschule der Künste

COMPETITIONS deadline: 22.3.11 Wettbewerb Vereinigung Schweizerischer Spitzenmacherinnen,

Esther Wanzenried, Wasserbaumweg 5/69, CH-4712 Laupersdorf deadline: 15.4.11 Grassimesse, [crafts fair] http://www.grassimuseum.de,

GRASSI Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Johannisplatz 5-11, D-04103 Leipzig deadline: 1.8.11 Quilts in Großformat 2013, [quilts] http://www.Quiltkunst-ev.de,

Margit Amann von Glembotzki, Max-Born-Str. 6, D-51429 Bergisch Gladbach deadline: 15.8.11 Wettbewerb 2012: "Farben des Orients", [lace competition]

www.deutscher-kloeppelverband.de, Deutscher Klöppelverband e.V., Schloss Zweibrüggen, D-52531 Übach-Palenberg deadline: 12.2.12 5. Europäische Quilt-Triennale 2012, , Textilmuseum Max Berk,

im Kurpfälzischen Museum der Stadt Heidelberg; http://www.museum-heidelberg.de Brahmsstr. 8, D-69118 Heidelberg-Ziegelhausen

MARKETS 16.3. - 20.3.11 Creativa, [craft fair] http://www.westfalenhallen.de,

Westfalenhallen Dortmund GmbH, Geschäftsbereich Messen; Rheinlanddamm 200, D-44139 Dortmund

16.3. - 22.3.11 Handwerk & Design, im Rahmen der Intl. Handwerksmesse,

[craft and design fair] http://www.ihm.de, Neue Messe München, Halle 1; Trudering-Riem, D-81829 München

8.4. - 10.4.11 h+h cologne - Internationale Fachmesse für Handarbeit + Hobby,

[textile craft fair] http://www.hh-cologne.de, KölnMesse, Messe- und Ausstellungs-GmbH; Messeplatz 1, D-50679 Köln

27.5. - 29.5.11 eunique - Internationale Messe für Angewandte Kunst & Design,

[arts & crafts fair] http://www.eu-nique.eu, Karlsruher Messeund Kongress-GmbH, Festplatz 9, D-76137 Karlsruhe

2.6. - 5.6.11 Markt der der schönen Dinge in Mainz, [craft market]

http://www.galerieforum.com, galerie forum, Dagobertstr. 2, D-55116 Mainz

5.6.11

2.6. - 5.6.11 Textilmarkt, [textile market] http://www.schloss-luentenbeck.de,

Schloss Lüntenbeck GmbH & Co. KG, Dr. Antonia Dinnebier; D-42327 Wuppertal

Rheinischer Wollmarkt, [wool market] http://www.lvr.de/orte/ euskirchen, Rheinisches Industriemuseum, Museum "Tuchfabrik Müller"; Carl-Koenen-Str. 25b, D-53881 Euskirchen

11.6. - 12.6.11 8. Nikolaimarkt - Handwerk und Design in Oldenburg, [crafts market] http://www.Nikolai-Markt.de, Nikolaimarkt, Bergstr. 5, D-26121 Oldenburg

18.6. - 19.6.11 15. Markt für Kunst und Handwerk in Hannover, [craft market]

http://www.kunstundhandwerk-hannover.de, Kulturbüro der Stadt Hannover, Susanne Drangmeister; Friedrichswall 15, D-30159 Hannover

18.6. - 19.6.11 7. Textile Art Berlin 2011, www.textile-art-berlin.de, Carl-von

Ossietzky-Oberschule, Blücherstraße 46-47, D-10961 Berlin

23.7. - 24.7.11 Webermarkt, [weavers market] www.textile.kultur.haslach.at,

Textile Kultur Haslach, c/o Tourismusbüro; Marktplatz 45, A-4170 Haslach

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