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Fabrics dyed with madder by the Dutch Rubia company (see page 32/33) Mit Krapp gefärbte Stoffe der Firma Rubia in den Niederlanden (siehe Seite 32/33) Photo: Rubia Pigmenta Naturalia

TEXTILFORUM 2/2007 TEXTILE FORUM 2/2007 BERICHTE REPORTS

SEITE PAGE

Informationen aus deutschsprachigen Ländern (mit Kalender)

Information from German-speaking countries __________________ 4 Ausstellungen, u. a. Leslie Gabriëlse 1965-2007 Beatrijs Sterk

Exhibitions, a. o. Leslie Gabriëlse 1965-2007 _____________________ 7 VORSCHAU PREVIEW Messen/Märkte, Wettbewerbe, Treffen/Kurse

Fairs/Markets, Competitions, Meetings/Courses ________________ 12 Ausstellungsvorschau

Exhibition previews __________________________________________ 14 NATURFARBEN NATURAL DYES II Int. Symposium mit Workshops in Hyderabad/Indien Dominique Cardon

Intl. Symposium/Workshops on Natural Dyes, Hyderabad/India ___ 18 Malaysia, Bangladesch und Pakistan E. Ong/ R. Ghuznavi/ N. Bilgrami Natural Dyes in Malaysia, Bahgladesh and Pakistan ____________ 21 Wiederbelebung der Indigokultur in El Salvador Ivan Séassal Reviving the Indigo Culture of El Salvador _____________________ 24 Naturfarben für eine Pariser Zirkusschau Sandrine Rozier Natural Dyes for a Circus Show in Paris ________________________ 25 Nationale und internationale Vernetzungsansätze in Japan, Korea, Frankreich, den USA und der Europäischen Union National and International Approaches to Networking in Japan, Korea, France, USA and the European Union ___________________ 26 Die Ausstellung 'Indigo – Ein Blau zum Sterben schön' Jenny Balfour-Paul

The Exhibition 'Indigo – A Blue to Dye for' ____________________ 28 3. Int. Kongress über Cochenille u. a. Naturfarbstoffe in Mexiko Yosi Anaya

3rd Intl. Congress on Cochineal and Natural Dyes in Mexico _____ 30 Die Firma 'Rubia Pigmenta Naturalia' Beatrijs Sterk

The Company 'Rubia Pigmenta Naturalia' ______________________ 32 Die Firma 'Couleurs de Plantes' – Pflanzenfarben Beatrijs Sterk

The Company 'Couleurs de Plantes' – Dyes from Plants _________ 34 SPINDIGO/EU-Projekt; Das IENICA-Netzwerk; REACH/EU-Gesetzesinitiative

SPINDIGO/EU-Project; IENICA Network; REACH/EU Chemicals Legislation ___ 36 BÜCHER Besprechungen BOOK REVIEWS 38 SONDERBERICHTE SPECIAL REPORTS Drei textiltouristische Ausflugsziele im Umkreis von London Patricia Christy

Three Sites for Textile Tourists near London ___________________ 40 Diana Springall und ihre Stickkunst-Sammlung Beatrijs Sterk Diana Spingall and her Embroidery Collection _________________ 42 VERANSTALTUNGSKALENDER International CALENDAR OF EVENTS __________________________________ 44 AUSBLICK TEXTILFORUM 3/2007 PREVIEW TEXTILE FORUM 3/2007 ____________________________ 57 Dominque

Cardon

EDITORIAL

We are indebted to Dominique Cardon for production of this magazine issue! We feel she has given us an anniversary present in her tenth year of membership in the European Textile Network. Despite urgent deadlines connected with completing the English version of her book, Le monde des teintures naturelles now “Natural Dyes” (see p. 38), she took the time to write to many of her colleagues around the world to persuade them to contribute to this issue. As regards natural dyes, Dominique is a citizen of the world and, moreover, a great communicator. She speaks many languages and understands quite a few more. An issue of great importance to her is that Europe should establish an efficient network of experts, producers, users, and lovers of natural dyes. Readers will learn more about her and her role in Hyderabad on pages 18 ff.

We have had another occasion to correspond with contacts around the globe, some of whom belonged to entirely different cultures It all began with the UNESCO world symposium on natural dyes recently held in Hyderabad, India, where around three quarters of the participants were from nonChristian countries We are indebted to Dominique Cardon, who moves among natural dye specialists like a duck takes to water, for many of the contacts we approached We wrote to 31 addressees in total and received replies from most of them; however, we often found it difficult to fit their contributions into the context of this issue of our magazine

Initially we wondered where we should place the focus of our reporting At first, we were unsure how to approach this issue as we had not attended Hyderabad ourselves Dominique’s review of the symposium, originally intended for TF 1/07, had so electrified us that we asked for her cooperation in producing an entire issue on the event, its outcome, and its side effects We asked ourselves whether it would be best to report on the course of the symposium and workshops, or whether we should stick to the events that we considered most important We also wondered if we should give space to other aspects, such as the tense relationship between natural dyers and the all-powerful chemical groups

In TF Ş/1996, the first issue of our magazine dedicated to natural dyes, we mentioned DyStar, a textile dye joint venture established by Hoechst and Bayer in 199š as an “eco offensive” (http://wwwŞ dystarcom€

For a very long time, our attention was engaged in agreeing contributions with Dominique Cardon who urged us to feature some of the Hyderabad players dear to her heart What kept us especially busy was our timeconsuming correspondence with the many overseas contacts Regrettably, the contributions published in this issue of our magazine do not reflect the totality of what arrived on our desk Several contributions went by the board altogether, either because the photos required for illustration were of insufficient quality or because we wished to avoid too much repetition Other contributions had to be significantly abridged or rewritten to get

to the core of the matter more directly For reasons of space, we were obliged to postpone several contributions until the issues coming One reply that unfortunately did not arrive for this issue should report on a Brazilian company which produces a complete, large-scale product line in denim trousers of eco cotton dyed with natural indigo, and even seems to have solved the problem of recycling; possibly the day-to-day running of the business allows them no time to attend to matters such as ours…

During our editorial work, we rarely had time for further research on the internet Thus, it was far too late that we learnt about a one-day conference on “Green Solutions and Sustainability in Textiles & Fashion”, held in Leeds, UK, just six days after Hyderabad (see p 3: “It is time for change in the textile and clothing industry”€ The two events – distant from each other in terms of geography, yet chronologically close, and with perfectly complementary themes – attracted ca 800 participants between them However, there is probably only one participant who attended both events – Professor Philip John of Reading, UK, the coordinator of the SPINDIGO project (see p 36€

According to a news item we spotted in a British paper, The Independent, DyStar has developed an environmentally friendly and extremely low-cost process for indigo dyeing – an alternative to SPINDIGO, as it were Regrettably, before this issue went to print we were unable to follow up this exciting competition between manufacturers of natural dyes and of synthetic dyes Generally spoken we do wonder about both groups almost complete ignorance of the other’s work

What is actually at stake here? Do we, the six billion people in the world, not wish to live in a colourful environment, and one whose natural diversity has been safeguarded for many generations to come? Are we, then, not obliged to consolidate our energies, and should those who work to preserve tradition and nature not join forces with industries that meet mass demand to find common paths towards this goal? More than ten years have passed since we published our first magazine issue on the same theme, yet the old battle lines are still drawn, despite an obvious need for coopera

View at the exhibition "Indigo: A Blue to Dye For" curated by Jenny Balfour-Paul Photo: Joel Chester Fildes

tion and increasingly urgent warnings of impending, self-inflicted natural disasters Incidentally, this appeal for joint action addresses not only the players on either side of the old divisions, but also those in both camps To date, the natural dyers’ networks appear to function as badly as those of the mass producers who are subject to public pressure Seen in this light, the initiatives taken at Hyderabad and Leeds seem like beacons in a dark night Dietmar Laue