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IMPRINT • IMPRESSUM TEXTILE FORUM English edition ISSN 1431-3529 TEXTILFORUM Deutsche Ausgabe ISSN 1431-3510 Published/Erscheint 4 x per annum, Publisher/Verlag: Textil-Forum-Service/B. Sterk Friedenstr. 5, P.O.Box/Postfach 5944, D-30059 Hannover; Tel: +49-(0)511/817007; Fax: /813108 E-mail: tfs@ETN-net.org Website: http://www.ETN-net.org/TFS/ Co-editor/Mitherausgeber: ETN Association (European Textile Network), Strasbourg Editor-in-chief/Chefredakteurin: Beatrijs Sterk Editorial staff/Redaktion: Dietmar Laue Translator/Übersetzerin: Susanne Mattern Advertising office/Anzeigen: Textil-ForumService, Hannover Layout/Herstellung: Ute Lehmann Printed by/Druck: Bonifatius GmbH Druck Buch Verlag, Paderborn Single magazine/Einzelheft: Euro 11,– plus postage/zzgl. Versandkosten Subscription/Abonnement International (calendar year only): Euro 46,– (or reduced price of Euro 41,– if payment is made by postal order or Diners Club/Eurocard/ Visa) Abonnement/Deutschland (Kalenderjahr!): Euro 41,– (Reduktion um Euro 5,– = Euro 36,– bei Zahlung per Bankeinzug) Bank account/Bankverbindung: Textil-ForumService/B. Sterk, account no./Kto.-Nr. 20733-301 (bank code/BLZ 250 100 30) Postbank Hannover
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Fishleather: Atlantic Leather Ltd., Iceland at 'Le Cuir à Paris' Material Novelty for Summer 2009 Fischleder: Atlantic Leather Ltd., Island auf der 'Le Cuir à Paris' Materialneuheit für Sommer 2009
Photo: © Le Cuir à Paris
TEXTILFORUM 2/2008 TEXTILE FORUM 2/2008 BERICHTE REPORTS
Informationen aus deutschsprachigen Ländern (mit Kalender)
Information from German-speaking countries __________________ 2 1. Innovationspreis Textil + Mode
1st Innovation Prize Textiles + Fashion
Die Messe Première Vision Pluriel im Frühjahr 2008 Beatrijs Sterk Review of the 'Première Vision Pluriel' Fair, Spring 2008
Hannover im Textil- und Moderausch Beatrijs Sterk Hanover in a Textile and Fashion Frenzy
VORSCHAU PREVIEW Diverse Ausstellungsvorschauen Divers exhibitions ___________________________________________ 12 Wettbewerbe, Treffen/Kurse Competitions, Meetings/Courses _______________________________ 16
LEDER LEATHER Macht Leder Lust? – Verborgene Codes der Lederbekleidung
Power Leather Lust? – Hidden Codes of Leather Clothing _______ 18 Das DLM − Deutsches Ledermuseum Offenbach Dir. Dr. Christian Rathke
The DLM − German Leather Museum, Offenbach _______________ 19 Die Geschichte der Lederverarbeitung, Museumssammlungen
The History of Leather Processing, Museum Collections _________ 21 Das Fischledermuseum Viechtach Beatrijs Sterk
The Fish Leather Museum of Viechtach ________________________ 22 Einblick in eine Gerberei: Die Heller-Leder Gmbh & Co. KG Dietmar Laue
Inside into a Tannery: Heller-Leder ____________________________ 24 Ein bemerkenswerter Großhandel für Lederwaren: Die Bree Collection A Remarkable Wholesaler for Leather Goods: Bree Collection _______ 26 Die Ledermesse "Le Cuir à Paris" Beatrijs Sterk
The French Leather Fair "Le Cuir à Paris"
Lederkunst – 27 Künstler präsentieren ihre Arbeiten
Leather Art – 27 artists present their works
Ausbildung in Lederkunst; Wissenswertes über den Werkstoff
Leather Art Education; Things Worth Knowing about the Material 40
BÜCHER Besprechungen BOOK REVIEWS
VERANSTALTUNGSKALENDER International CALENDAR OF EVENTS __________________________________ 44 AUSBLICK TEXTILFORUM 3/2008 PREVIEW TEXTILE FORUM 3/2008 ____________________________ 57 EDITORIAL
How can it be that in the 26 years since we founded our magazine, we never featured LEATHER? We do not know. What we do know is that we should have featured the theme of leather in an issue of our magazine long before now.
A preview published in TF 4/2007 on an exhibition of fish leather at the Offenbach Leather Museum, news of which had reached us by coincidence, provided the impetus for this issue. As usual, we notified the museum about our exhibition announcement, and promptly received a message from Dr. Nenno, the curator of the European Department of the Leather Museum, advising us that another major leather exhibition entitled MACHT LEDER LUST? (POWER LEATHER LUST€ was under preparation for 2008. We wonder if for all those years, these connotations of leather – its association with power and lust – were the very reason that subconsciously prevented us from looking into the material more closely? Time and again, our internet research into the subject brought up unsavoury websites from the S & M scene, and similar combinations of sex and violence. Revulsion can be a source of fascination, too, so we set off for Offenbach to pay Germany’s best known leather museum a visit, a museum which, until then, we only knew by name. That visit turned into a seminal experience for us!
In Offenbach we realised that an issue devoted to leather is indeed overdue, not least because it would serve to celebrate the richness of the Leather Museum’s collection and recommend it to our readers, who unless they have already done so, should use the current exhibition as an opportunity for discovering the museum.
And so we published our first feature on the German Leather Museum in TF 1/2008, together with a preview of the MACHT LEDER LUST? exhibition. The present issue contains another report from a different angle on page 18.
All the other contributions should be perceived as snapshots arising from our enthusiasm for a new theme. We did not have much preparation time for in-depth research. Our contacts for the field of LEATHER did not, or still do not, know us. It is not surprising,
then, that we are unable to announce many upcoming events (exhibitions, competitions, conferences, etc.€ in this field at this time. Since people do not know us, naturally they will not provide us with information, but we hope that publication of this issue will change that. At any rate, our editors now pay far more attention to the cultural events offered in the discipline of leather. Leather applications cover as wide a range as textile applications. Nevertheless, the use of leather has declined sharply compared to the past; leather has been widely replaced by synthetic material.
Strictly speaking, a comparison of textiles and leather is inadmissible as textiles describe a production technique rather than a material. This explains why synthetic material, when they emerged, were easily integrated in the textile sector, both in a liquid state as base materials for yarn production or moulding materials for textile-reinforced composites, and in a solid state as foils or – cut into ribbons – as materials suitable for creating two-dimensional textile structures. Leather, on the other hand, is a two-dimensional material by nature, and as such can be replaced by other two-dimensional structures, although it is possible to work it using textile techniques.
When visiting the Paris fairs (see p. 28-29€, we were especially interested in the interaction of textiles, leather, and plastics in that context; each material and technique has its own appeal, providing a wide range of sensual experiences which can repeatedly play visual, tactile, acoustic and olfactory tricks on us, constantly making for surprises.
Despite all rival materials, there is no doubt about the fascination of leather. The signal effect of leather makes it indispensable on a number of levels of perception. Incidentally, our work and our visits to fairs often brought us face to face with the theme of FUR, usually as a field to be differentiated from our theme of leather. We will feature natural and artificial fur at a later date, and our reporting will definitely have a more critical and ecological bias than we chose to apply in the case of leather.
Beatrijs Sterk & Dietmar Laue
Left: Leather objects from the private collection at the Bree company Shaman costume made of fish leather Inuit kayak made of sealskin, wood and bone Shadow puppet made of leather, collection German Leather Museum, Offenbach