IMPRINT • IMPRESSUM TEXTILE FORUM English edition ISSN 1431-3529 TEXTILFORUM Deutsche Ausgabe ISSN 1431-3510 Published/Erscheint 4 x per annum, Publisher/Verlag: Textil-Forum-Service/B. Sterk Friedenstr. 5, P.O.Box/Postfach 5944, D-30059 Hannover; Tel: +49-(0)511/817007; Fax: /813108 E-mail: tfs@ETN-net.org Website: http://www.ETN-net.org/TFS/ Co-editor/Mitherausgeber: ETN Association (European Textile Network), Strasbourg Editor-in-chief/Chefredakteurin: Beatrijs Sterk Editorial staff/Redaktion: Dietmar Laue Translator/Übersetzerin: Susanne Mattern Advertising office/Anzeigen: Textil-ForumService, Hannover Layout/Herstellung: Ute Lehmann Printed by/Druck: Bonifatius GmbH Druck Buch Verlag, Paderborn Single magazine/Einzelheft: Euro 12,– plus postage/zzgl. Versandkosten (ab/from on 2009) Subscription/Abonnement International (calendar year only): Euro 50,– (or reduced price of Euro 45,– if payment is made by postal order or Diners Club/Eurocard/ Visa) Abonnement/Deutschland (Kalenderjahr!): Euro 45,– (Reduktion um Euro 5,– = Euro 40,– bei Zahlung per Bankeinzug) Bank account/Bankverbindung: Textil-ForumService/B. Sterk, account no./Kto.-Nr. 20733-301 (bank code/BLZ 250 100 30) Postbank Hannover

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Look at ETN’s Website http://www.ETN-net.org TITLE • TITEL

Beatriz Schaaf-Giesser: "Custodia" (detail), 2007, 24 objects, 20 x 20 x 16 cm wool, felted and phototransfer (see page 25) Beatriz Schaaf-Giesser: "Custodia" (Detail), 2007, 24 Objekte, 20 x 20 x 16 cm Wolle, gefilzt und Transferdruck (s. Seite 25)

TEXTILFORUM 2/2009 TEXTILE FORUM 2/2009 BERICHTE REPORTS

SEITE PAGE

Informationen aus deutschsprachigen Ländern (mit Kalender)

Information from German-speaking countries __________________ 2 Anmerkungen zur 5. Int. Textilkunstbiennale in China D. Laue Notes to the 5th Intl. Textile Art Biennial in China 7 Textilkunst-Konferenzen in Paris und Lausanne

Textile Art Conferences in Paris and Lausanne

8

VORSCHAU PREVIEW Tuchintarsien in Europa von 1500 bis heute Dietmar Laue

Inlaid Patchwork in Europe from 1500 to the Present ___________ 12 Wenn Frauen die Welt regieren: Judy Chicago in Textil Joe Lewis When Women rule the World: Judy Chicago in Threads _________ 14 Messen, Wettbewerbe, Treffen/Kurse

Fairs, Competitions, Meetings/Courses _________________________ 16 IBEROAMERICA Lateinamerika, ein Schnellkurs Dietmar Laue

Latin America, a crash course ___________________________________ 20 Textil in den Anden Martha Caijas

Textiles in the Andean _______________________________________ 22 Die 5. Biennale der Textilkunst in Buenos Aires Beatrijs Sterk

The 5th Biennial of Textile Art in Buenos Aires ________________ 24 Reiseziel Argentinien Beatrijs Sterk Destinction Argentina _______________________________________ 28 Argentinische Textilien Ximena Gonzáles Eliçabe Argentinian Textiles __________________________________________ 30 Textil in Argentinien Gracia Cutuli

Textiles in Argentina ________________________________________ 32 Las Culturas Verdes – Grüne Kulturen Dietmar Laue

Las Culturas Verdes – Green Cultures

34

Manos del Uruguay; Ñanduti – Lateinamerikanische Spitzen Manos del Uruguay; Ñanduti – Latin American Lace

"Gehen Sie nach Antigua..."; Das Textilmuseum von Oaxaca/MEX

"Go to Antigua..."; The Textile Museum of Oaxaca in Mexico

Lateinamerikas Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie Dietmar Laue

The Textile and Clothing Industry of Latin America

36

38

40

SONDERBERICHT SPECIAL REPORT Die Modesprache in Abidjan, Elfenbeinküste Ilsemargret Luttmann

Fashion Language in Abidjan; Côte d'Ivoire ____________________ 42 BÜCHER Besprechungen BOOK REVIEWS 44 VERANSTALTUNGSKALENDER International CALENDAR OF EVENTS __________________________________ 46 AUSBLICK TEXTILFORUM 3/2009 PREVIEW TEXTILE FORUM 3/2009 ____________________________ 57 EDITORIAL

The idea to establish closer links with Latin America arose after Lala de Dios, the Spanish ETN President, visited ∑osta Rica and, at the request of several colleagues there, helped establish an Iberoamerican textile network. Lala reported on her mission in TF 4/2006, page 12.

At the time, San José, the ∑osta Rican capital, was the venue of the 4th International Biennial of Textile Art, organised by Women in Textile Art, an association based in Florida; after a recent name change to World Textile Art, it now also admits male textile artists. I was invited to attend the 5th Biennial, held in Buenos Aires this year (see p. 24€, and asked to accept a position as a judge. Accordingly, our editorial department decided to devote issue TF 2/09 to Latin American culture.

Our editors do not speak an Iberoeuropean language, and our perception has a ciasalpine bias – we perceive the USA and ∑anada as natural parts of our everyday textile culture, but disregard ∑entral and South America. When thinking about Latin American countries, we automatically focus on pre-∑olumbian and ethnic textiles. Our museums and the book trade are full of such themes. Our linguistic helplessness prevents us from absorbing Spanish or Portuguese news that might correct our view, which derives from translated material. We are similarly clueless about other cultural and political conditions in those countries.

Norbert Rehrmann, a German professor of Romance languages specialised in the Iberian peninsula and Latin America

at Dresden Technical University, drew our attention to the fact that ∑entral and South American intellectuals know roughly twenty times as much about Europeans as we do about them.

Readers should bear this disadvantage in mind when devoting their attention to this issue! What information would active readers interested in Latin American textile culture wish to learn? Our response to this question was the same as when the borders with Eastern Europe were dismantled, and we endeavoured to establish contacts there. We sought out addresses of colleagues who can be contacted by anyone wishing to study specific themes in a particular region or planning a visit to that region: addresses of design associations, museums with important textile and costume collections, and educational institutions for textile professions.

The background for this issue of our magazine is a newly added Latin American section in the European Textile Network (ETN€ address file, created in cooperation with the new Iberoamerican Textile Network as well as several artists and scholars, most of them ETN members for years (see p. 41€.

Individual contributions published in this issue focus on current events in Argentina and its capital, Buenos Aires, while other contributions are features I was able to secure as a result of my stay in the country.

I sincerely hope that in future, I will receive frequent reports of Latin American textile cultural life.

Beatrijs Sterk

Top from left: Laura Ferrando, Oscar Smoje/

Director Palais de Glace, Dr. José Nun/

Min. of Culture of Argentina and Pilar Tobón, Biennial initiator, at the opening

Centre: Market scene from the Andean mountains, the tour was

part of the Biennial events

Bottom: A side view on the "Green Cultures"

of South America, see pages 34/35

Left: Gracia Cutuli with two of her works, "Huinca Toro!" (left) and "Borges's Poncho", 2000, at the 'LoiSuites Recoleta Hotel' in Buenos Aires Gracia has been assisting at the making of this issue. She helped us with contacts of authors and wrote a contribution on pages 22/23. Below: Laura Ferrando, artist and member of the WTA Biennial organizational committee, at the opening (background B. Sterk)