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IMPRINT • IMPRESSUM TEXTILE FORUM English edition ISSN 1431-3529 TEXTILFORUM Deutsche Ausgabe ISSN 1431-3510 Published/Erscheint 4 x per annum, Publisher/Verlag: Textil-Forum-Service/B. Sterk Friedenstr. 5, P.O.Box/Postfach 5944, D-30059 Hannover; Tel: +49-(0)511/817007; Fax: /813108 E-mail: tfs@ETN-net.org Website: http://www.ETN-net.org/TFS/ Co-editor/Mitherausgeber: ETN Association (European Textile Network), Strasbourg Editor-in-chief/Chefredakteurin: Beatrijs Sterk Editorial staff/Redaktion: Dietmar Laue Translator/Übersetzerin: Susanne Mattern Advertising office/Anzeigen: Textil-ForumService, Hannover Layout/Herstellung: Ute Lehmann Printed by/Druck: Bonifatius GmbH Druck Buch Verlag, Paderborn Single magazine/Einzelheft: Euro 12,– plus postage/zzgl. Versandkosten (ab/from on 2009) Subscription/Abonnement International (calendar year only): Euro 50,– (or reduced price of Euro 45,– if payment is made by postal order or Diners Club/Eurocard/ Visa) Abonnement/Deutschland (Kalenderjahr!): Euro 45,– (Reduktion um Euro 5,– = Euro 40,– bei Zahlung per Bankeinzug) Bank account/Bankverbindung: Textil-ForumService/B. Sterk, account no./Kto.-Nr. 20733-301 (bank code/BLZ 250 100 30) Postbank Hannover
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Look at ETN’s Website http://www.ETN-net.org TITLE • TITEL
"Skorpions", a project with shape-menory alloy, Prof. Joanna Berzowska, XS Labs 2008, Montreal (see page 29) Das Projekt "Skorpione" mit Formerinnerungsmaterial, Prof. Joanna Berzowska, XS Labs 2008, Montreal (siehe Seite 29) Photo: Nico Stinghe
TEXTILFORUM 3/2009 TEXTILE FORUM 3/2009 BERICHTE REPORTS
Informationen aus deutschsprachigen Ländern (mit Kalender)
Information from German-speaking countries __________________ 2 Modebiennale Arnhem/ Textilbiennale in Rijswijk, Holland
The Fashion Biennial of Arnhem/ The New Rijswijk Textile Biennial 8 'Werbung überzieht das Land...', Berlin/ Modetechnologie, Sydney
'Advertising Covers the Entire Country...', Berlin/ Fashion Technology, Sydney
Sonstige Ausstellungsberichte More exhibition reports
Die 15. ETN-Konferenz in Haslach, Oberösterreich
The 15th ETN Conference in Haslach, Upper Austria
VORSCHAU PREVIEW Vom Winde verweht, Ausstellung in Nordholland Beatrijs Sterk Gone with the Wind, exhibition in North Holland _______________ 17 Wettbewerbe, Treffen/Kurse Competitions, Meetings/Courses ______________________________ 18 Diverse Ausstellungsvorschauen Diverse exhibition previews __________________________________ 20 4. Europ. Quilttriennale, Heidelberg/ Miniartextil 2009, Como
The 4th Europ. Quilt Triennial, Heidelberg/ Miniartextil '09, Como __ 18 Stoffkunst, Sydney/ Textilkunst zwischen Tradition und Erneuerung Art Cloth, Sydney/ Changing Fibres – Textile Art on the Edge _______ 18 INTELLIGENTE TEXTILIEN SMART TEXTILES Elektronische Textilien Joanna Berzowska
Electronic Textiles – Traditional Methods and New Materials ______ 26 Zane Berzina: E-Static Shadows Beatrijs Sterk
Zane Berzina: E-Static Shadows ______________________________ 31 EduWear – Ein textiles Bildungsprojekt für Kinder Marion Ellwanger
EduWear – An educational textile project for kids ______________ 32 Die 13. Techtextil mit Avantex und Material Vision in Frankfurt/M.
The 13th Techtextil with Avantex and Material Vision __________ 34 Die Smart Textiles-Interessengemeinschaft Beatrijs Sterk
The Smart Textiles Community ________________________________ 36 'Das kleine Schwarze' – Avantex Innovationspreis 2009 u. a.
'The Little Black Dress' – Avantex Innovation Prize, 2009 _______ 40 SONDERBERICHT SPECIAL REPORT Der afrikanische Textilmarkt und die Globalisierung I. Luttmann
The African Textile Market and Globalisation ___________________ 42 BÜCHER Besprechungen BOOK REVIEWS 44 VERANSTALTUNGSKALENDER International CALENDAR OF EVENTS __________________________________ 46 AUSBLICK TEXTILFORUM 4/2009 PREVIEW TEXTILE FORUM 4/2009 ____________________________ 57 "Intimate Memory",
acts of physical
intimacy from Joanna Berzowska
in Montreal © XS Labs 2007
Due to editorial work on this issue being delayed by preparations for the ETN Conference, the text by Dörte Behn below arrived in time for publication.
The terminological confusion that has crept in with the advent of new technolo gies is exacerbated in German by the translation of “smart” as “intelligent”. Textiles are not “intelligent” by nature but are, at best and in many cases, pro duced in intelligent ways. Usually they are also repositories of a centuries-old repertoire of human experience in devis ing ways to join flexible materials.
Still, it cannot be denied that the dis covery and invention of novel materials and new textile processes continuously increases the rich experience we have in this field. New fairs, such as the German TECHTEXTIL, address this subject. All new materials and technologies have always resulted in new aesthetic appear ances to be explored by textile artists, designers and craftspeople. As the content of this isue shows, so-called “smart” tex tiles are still very much in their infancy, but their development nevertheless merits
attention. It is to be hoped that more suitable and less annoying terms to describe them can be found. The fact that people in the relevant in dustries have exchanged their respective mother tongues for English, is some thing we shrug off as an expression of internalised feelings of inferiority on the part of producers and marketing people. Quite a few websites generated in Ger man-speaking countries now completely ignore their native language. Techno fashion is presented in English, just as most of it is produced in English-speak ing countries. Speakers of foreign lan guages simply jump on the bandwagon from sheer linguistic laziness. Creating our own terminology would enable us to own the various developmental steps and to relate to them in our own language, acquiring a proper grasp of the concepts in our own minds so that we can shape them to fit our needs, wilfully improve them, and develop new insights and products in our native languages. Dietmar Laue
INTELLIGENT TEXTILES – THE ORIGINALS I reclaim the term “intelligent textiles” for weaving!
In my view, it is wrong to allow the term “smart or intelligent textiles” to be appropriated for electronic feats. Textiles are so deeply embedded in the domestic sphere that it would not hurt to associate them with intelligence.
Weaving is directly linked to logic. The technique of interlacing threads follows logical precepts. Different rules apply in the technologies that integrate textiles with electronics. The basic principle of weaving, “over one/under one”, and the wonderful “yes/no” language of punched cards govern all necessary processes. “Power on/power off” came much later, and was only possible as a consequence of the former principle.
To me, intelligence in textiles means that this basic principle is also employed in the design process to make use of the features inherent in the system. I speak of “smart or intelligent textiles” where the basic principle of weaving has been recognised, and where a design and its execution follow insights gained from the technique. The inherent logic of weaving is exactly what distinguish es this technique from all other techniques. Weaving is the only consistently logical technique, and as such it differs from other textile techniques. Intelligence is a given in weaving, it only needs to be recognised.
For some years, I have used the term “intelligent textiles” in my website to describe my own multilayered weaves. The principle of “over one/under one”, the simplest possible method for creat ing weavings from threads, is repeated in construction of three-dimensional weaves where I use the same principle to link wo ven surfaces, producing three-dimensional objects or multilayered scarves.
I also use this term when employing high-twist yarns in my work. In this proc ess, I make use of the energy inherent in high-twist yarns in order to distort or change a weave. Thus, the elastic construc tion of lumens in the “Serie der Trompetenschals” (“Series of Trumpet Scarves”, see the Contemporary Applied Art exhibi tions held in London and at the Leipzig Grassimesse this year€ was exclusively achieved with the energy of a high-twist yarn! A closed system, such as a hose, does not lose energy. This application requires similar recognition of a basic principle to produce a consistent course of action. Electronics are not a prerequisite for this. And the fact that a wire resembles a thread does not mean that the former is any more capable of thought than the latter.
To say it again: the textile conglomerate must arrive at a more differentiated per ception of weaving to remove it from the domestic sphere, and associate it with new concepts such as logic, consecutive thinking and constructive action. What a prospect! Dörte Behn, 30th July 2009
Dörte Behn/D:"Trumpet Scarves" as smart textiles Photo: Jürgen Liefmann