IMPRINT • IMPRESSUM TEXTILE FORUM English edition ISSN 1431-3529 TEXTILFORUM Deutsche Ausgabe ISSN 1431-3510 Digital edition in English available Englische Digital-Ausgabe im Internet Published/Erscheint 4 x per annum, Publisher/Verlag: Textil-Forum-Service/B. Sterk Friedenstr. 5, P.O.Box/Postfach 5944, D-30059 Hannover; Tel: +49-511/817007; Fax: /813108 E-mail: tfs@ETN-net.org Website: http://www.tfs-etn.com Textile Forum: http://www.facebook.com Co-editor/Mitherausgeber: ETN Association (European Textile Network), Strasbourg Editor-in-chief/Chefredakteurin: Beatrijs Sterk Editorial staff/Redaktion: Dietmar Laue Translator/Übersetzerin: Susanne Mattern Advertising office/Anzeigen: Textil-ForumService, Hannover Layout/Herstellung: Ute Lehmann Printed by/Druck: Bonifatius GmbH Druck Buch Verlag, Paderborn Single magazine/Einzelheft: Euro 12,– plus postage / zzgl. Versandkosten (ab/from on 2009) Subscription/Abonnement International (calendar year only): Euro 50,– (or reduced price of Euro 45,– if payment is made by postal order, Paypal or Diners Club/Euro­card/ Visa) Abonnement/Deutschland (Kalenderjahr!): Euro 45,– (Reduktion um Euro 5,– = Euro 40,– bei Zahlung per Bankeinzug) Bank account/Bankverbindung: Textil-ForumService/B. Sterk, account no./Kto.-Nr. 20733-301 (bank code/BLZ 250 100 30) Postbank Hannover

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TITLE • TITEL Contract fabric 'blue-structure', Lifecycle pure new wool with proof of origin/ramie; Design by Gessner AG (see page 28/29) Büromöbelstoff 'blue-structure', Lifecycle Farmwolle/ Ramie; Entwurf & Produktion Gessner AG (siehe Seiten 28/29)

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TEXTILFORUM 3/2011 TEXTILE FORUM 3/2011 BERICHTE REPORTS

SEITE PAGE

Informationen aus deutschsprachigen Ländern (mit Kalender)

Information from German-speaking countries ___________________ 2 Diverse Veranstaltungsberichte Diverse event reports _ ________________________________________ 7 ISEND 2011 Europa, Naturfarben-Symposium in Frankreich Barbara Bigler

ISEND 2011 Europe, Natural Dyes Symposium in France __________ 8 Die 14. Techtextil/Avantex-Messe mit Material Vision & Texprocess

The 14th Techtextil/Avantex & Material Vision+Texprocess fairs _ ____ 12 Die 6. WTA-Biennale in Mexiko S. T. Avila, V. Kirk u. C. Kallenborn

The 6th WTA Biennial in Mexico _______________________________ 16 VORSCHAU PREVIEW Textil & Mode: Europas Blick auf die Welt – 7. Triennale in Tournai, 1. Int. Textilkunstbiennale in Rijswijk und 4. Modebiennale in Arnheim

Textiles & Fashion: Europe's View of the World – 7th Triennial of Tournai, First Intl. Rijswijk Textile Biennial and 4th Arnhem Fashion Biennial _____ 18 Textilkunstausstellung in Japan und New York Beatrijs Sterk

Exhibition of Textile Art in Japan and New York_ _______________ 22 Energheia – Miniartextil Como 2011 Monika Engel

Energheia – 2011 Como Miniartextil ___________________________ 23 Wettbewerbe, Treffen/Kurse Competitions, Meetings/Courses _______________________________ 26 TEXTILIEN UND NACHHALTIGKEIT SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES Die Gessner AG und das Cradle-to-Cradle-Prinzip Dietmar Laue

The Gessner Company and the Cradle-To-Cradle Principle___________ 28 Nachhaltige Mode & Textilien, Das Buch von Kate Fletcher Beatrijs Sterk

Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, A book by Kate Fletcher_________ 31 Nachhaltige Mode gestalten, Buchneuerscheinung Beatrijs Sterk

Shaping Sustainable Fashion, New Edition______________________ 34 Nachhaltige Textilien: Natur oder Umwelt? Marie O'Mahony

Sustainable Textiles: Nature or Nurture?________________________ 36 Eco Fashion, Top-Labels entdecken die grüne Mode, Buchneuerscheinung

Eco Fashion – Top Labels Discover Green Fashion, New Edition________ 39 Textilien und Nachhaltigkeit – Eine Nachbetrachtung Dietmar Laue

Textiles and Sustainability – An Afterword______________________ 40 Aus Kunststoff-Flaschen werden Garne – Die PET-Flaschen-Story D. Laue

Plastic Bottles Turn to Yarn – The PET Bottle Story_______________ 43 BÜCHER Besprechungen BOOK REVIEWS ______________________ 44 VERANSTALTUNGSKALENDER International CALENDAR OF EVENTS ___________________________________ 46 AUSBLICK TEXTILFORUM 4/2011 PREVIEW TEXTILE FORUM 4/2011 _ ____________________________ 57 Left: Furniture fabric

'bling-bling-weave', Lifecycle pure wool with proof of origin/ramie Centre: Contract fabric

'techno-weave', Lifecycle pure new wool with proof of origin/ramie

Right: Furniture fabric

'grain-weave', Lifecycle pure wool with proof of origin/ Redesigned LenzingFR

Design by Gessner AG

EDITORIAL

In the previous issue, TF 2/2011, we concluded our remarks on “30 Years of Textile Forum” by stating that we had experienced the lack of importance attached to textiles in our society for ourselves, and that we consider this insurmountable given the current conditions. “What remains to be done?”, was the open question with which we left our readers, knowing that we are approaching the limits of global growth and that a great perplexity will beset economic liberalism by 2100 at the latest (see “The Limits to Growth”, http:// en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Limits_ to_Growth).

Then, quite by chance, we came across a book just published, “Shaping Sustainable Fashion”, co-written by seven guest authors including Kate Fletcher and Marie O'Mahony. The former recently appeared in Hamburg, where she was announced as an icon of sustainability in fashion. The latter is a well-known name for us in the context of so-called smart textiles;

she was one of the speakers at our ETN Conference held in London in 2007 and will send us a video mess age to Kaunas, where the 16th ETN meeting will take place this autumn. As regards the debate on sustainability, we had long laboured under the misconception that it was simply tokenism on the part of the textile and clothing industry and i ts supplier s, and thus not worth taking seriously.

However, i t appears that for some years even that sector of industry has made serious ef forts to counter the impending collapse of our economic system – which has so vehemently contributed to the devaluation of textile culture – by preparing the ground for a change in thinking. A little less than a century before a global economy Fukushima, this may even lead to a change of course – a phase-out of our current throwaway civilisation which, God willing, may result in our textiles being revalued. Dietmar Laue

ADDENDUM ON OUR CHOICE OF PAPER QUALITY FOR OUR MAGAZINE Ever since we examined the theme of sustainability more closely, we have rethought the paper quality used to print our magazine. In cooperation with our printers, Bonifatius Druckerei of Paderborn, future issues of Textile Forum will use an FSC paper.

The FSC – Forest Stewardship Council – is responsible for environmentally friendly, socially compatible and economically acceptable forest management. The FSC label seen on page 57 is an indication that the wood used was produced through responsible forest management.

The manufacture of paper and the production process required for one issue of Textile Forum magazine generates ca. 2,000 kilos of CO2 emissions. As of issue 3/2011, we will compensate for this by means of climate protection projects. The “Carbon-neutral printing” logo on page 57 certifies compensation of emissions by means of savings achieved through climate protection projects.

Above: Recycled PET f ibres for a moisture absorbing fabric 'Eco Circle' by Teijin/Japan (image from the book "Advanced Textiles for Health and Wellbeing", see page 45) Right: Fabric 'Cloqué' produced by Schoeller after the bluesign® label; this label demands the highest EHS (Environment, Health and Safety) norms