IMPRINT • IMPRESSUM TEXTILE FORUM English edition ISSN 1431-3529 TEXTILFORUM Deutsche Ausgabe ISSN 1431-3510 Published/Erscheint 4 x per annum, Publisher/Verlag: Textil-Forum-Service/B. Sterk Friedenstr. 5, P.O.Box/Postfach 5944, D-30059 Hannover; Tel: +49-(0)511/817007; Fax: /813108 E-mail: tfs@ETN-net.org Website: http://www.ETN-net.org/TFS/ Co-editor/Mitherausgeber: ETN Association (European Textile Network), Strasbourg Editor-in-chief/Chefredakteurin: Beatrijs Sterk Editorial staff/Redaktion: Dietmar Laue Translator/Übersetzerin: Susanne Mattern Advertising office/Anzeigen: Textil-ForumService, Hannover Layout/Herstellung: Ute Lehmann Printed by/Druck: Bonifatius GmbH Druck Buch Verlag, Paderborn Single magazine/Einzelheft: Euro 11,– plus postage/zzgl. Versandkosten Subscription/Abonnement International (calendar year only): Euro 46,– (or reduced price of Euro 41,– if payment is made by postal order or Diners Club/Eurocard/ Visa) Abonnement/Deutschland (Kalenderjahr!): Euro 41,– (Reduktion um Euro 5,– = Euro 36,– bei Zahlung per Bankeinzug) Bank account/Bankverbindung: Textil-ForumService/B. Sterk, account no./Kto.-Nr. 20733-301 (bank code/BLZ 250 100 30) Postbank Hannover

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Look at ETN’s Website http://www.ETN-net.org TITLE • TITEL

Laura Beehler/USA "Step" (detail), 2007 reactive dye; see "Unfurled", pages 30-32 Laura Beehler/USA "Step" (Detail), 2007 Reservefärbeverfahren siehe "Entfaltet" auf den Seiten 30-32

TEXTILFORUM 4/2007 TEXTILE FORUM 4/2007 BERICHTE REPORTS

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Informationen aus deutschsprachigen Ländern (mit Kalender)

Information from German-speaking countries __________________ 2 Der textile Herbst von Como Beatrijs Sterk Como's Textile Autumn 6 Die ETN-Konferenz in London Beatrijs Sterk

The ETN Conference in London

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Hochschulerfahrungen mit der Jacquardweberei Eva Basile

Experiences with Jacquard Weaving at University Level

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Handwerk und Tracht Beatrijs Sterk Craft and Traditional Costume ________________________________ 13 VORSCHAU PREVIEW Wettbewerbe, Treffen/Kurse Competitions, Meetings/Courses ______________________________ 14 Spitzen und so weiter, Ausstellung in Wien

Lace and so on – Bertha Pappenheim Collection at MAK/Vienna ___ 16 Die Volkskunst der Brüder Wallach Dietmar Laue

The Wallach Brothers’ Folk Art ________________________________ 18 Stickkunstausstellung, New York; Strickkunstsammlungen/Norwegen

‘Pricked – Extreme Embroidery’, New York; Knitting Art, Norway ____ 20 Ein Schiffli-Stickereiprojekt in Manchester A Schiffli Embroidery Project in Manchester ___________________ 22 STOFFKUNST ART CLOTH Stofferzählungen – Erzählstoff Beatrijs Sterk

Fabric Narratives – Narrative Fabrics __________________________ 24 Stoffe zum Träumen Sabine Wilp

Fabrics for Dreaming _________________________________________ 27 Entfaltet: Ausdrucksstarker Stoff Wendy Weiss Unfurled: Expressive Cloth ___________________________________ 30 Stoffe und Kultur heute Beatrijs Sterk Cloth and Culture now _______________________________________ 32 Mühlviertler Stoffmuster Dietmar Laue Mühlviertel Fabric Design ____________________________________ 36 SONDERBERICHTE SPECIAL REPORTS Die Stoffsammlerin Erika Knoop Beatrijs Sterk

Fabric collector E. Knoop, her Museum of Textile Art, Hanover ______ 38 BÜCHER Besprechungen BOOK REVIEWS 40 VERANSTALTUNGSKALENDER International CALENDAR OF EVENTS __________________________________ 44 AUSBLICK TEXTILFORUM 1/2008 PREVIEW TEXTILE FORUM 1/2008 ____________________________ 57 EDITORIAL

This year the theme of art cloth, to which this issue is dedicated, came up in three contexts almost simultaneously: 1€ in Hanover, where our editorial department is based, 2€ in an exhibition review that reached us from Nebraska, USA, and 3€ in a preview of a travelling exhibition conceived in East Anglia, UK. We came to realise that the English term ‘art cloth’ could not be more ambiguous. Synonyms for ‘cloth’ in the English language – ‘material’ or ‘fabric’ – can refer to matter in a physical as well as a spiritual sense. What, then, does art cloth mean?

Naturally, textile people primarily use the term to denote semi-finished products that are made up into clothing, home furnishings, or household textiles, or, the latest trend, used in the manufacture of finished technical textile products. But this definition encompasses a wide range of possible meanings. The art cloth movement declares that fabrics – textiles that are felted, woven, knitted, or otherwise produced by the yard, and “artfully” finished – constitute an art form. Others in the textile field maintain that notwithstanding their artistic value, sophisticated textiles designed in good taste, whether semi-finished or finished products, may, or should, remain utility items. Thus some people deliberately create work for shows, art spaces, or immediate inclusion in art museums, while others produce items destined for further processing or practical use.

Four contributions – two referring to a Hanover initiative, one to the aforementioned exhibition in Žincoln, Nebraska, now concluded, and one to an exhibition currently under preparation in Norwich, East Anglia – will throw light on this somewhat hazy subject, and illuminate the wealth of its textile manifestations. A fifth contribution from Upper Austria adds an art industry perspective to our theme, and indirectly serves to make us more aware of the role of fabrics as “art” products that help to define identity in our everyday lives. Dietmar Laue

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Fabric narratives � narrative fabric, Hanover Photo: "Gezielte Morde" by Aglaia Haritz/CH appliqué Fabrics for dreaming Photo: "Fireflies" shawl by Maria Hößle-Stix/D, Jacquard weaving Unfurled: Expressive cloth, USA Photo: "Henna Hands", 2006 by Sherri Smith/USA silk, screen printing Cloth and Culture now, Great Britain Photo: "The Golden Age" (detail€ by Aune Taamal/EE, embroidery on non-woven fabric Mühlviertel fabric design, Austria Photo: dobby weaving by Manuela Maurer/A

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